I am looking at buying a 70 convertible no engine no trans has a dana 60 VIN WP27 5th digit can not tell looks like an O(not a 0 zero) or a C and not at all like a G. WP27_ 0G102568. I can only assume its a G. Will try to upload picture.

I have a 67 Coronet with the push button door handles. I hate that door rattle and the only thing that rattles is the door thumb button.
So I bought new made in AMERICA exterior door handles. I took them out of package and shook them. They were silent! WHOOT!

Put them in, The linkage pulls the bell crank and holds open the plate that the thumb button pushes on.....

Crap!

Even though its better! By a mile.. We can do better.

I took a vacuum fitting cap that you can buy as assorted set from most auto parts stores. I used the white one. I cut the vacuum fitting cap in half or more, like a making short condom for the tip of the push rod.

All thats needed.
Take off interior door panel
Pull bell crank down,
Have helper push/ hold door button
Push on the rubber tip from a vacuum cap onto the thumb button pushrod.

Release!
Done!

hi guys i installed a innovate wide band air/fuel ratio gauge to see whats happening with my car at 5000rpm.
as suspected its leaning right out to 18:1 at 5000rpm and starts breaking down. cruise ratio is 14:1 and around 4000rpm its 15:1.
now im thinking the fuel pump is to small.
its a 383 dont know what cam, 750 dp mech secondary holley, idle fuel pressure is 4 psi.
its running aftermarket standard mecahnical fuel pump to 3/8 barbed filter then line into carby, which then holley has its own filters at inlet.
all is clean.

if i put a elec fuel pump on, will running higher fuel pressure help with starvation or will i have to increase fuel hose size for flow?
i did read holleys should run at 6psi.

any suggestions.

I'm disgusted. Wiped the cam in the 440 earlier this year - daughter's car. A few hundred miles and 28 runs. Put hydraulic roller in that motor. That didn't go too well.

So tore the original 383 down that I ran for several years before the 440 went in - its going in the car. Yup - cam was wiped.

So no more Valvoline oil for me. I'm going with Driven from now on (Joe Gibbs Racing Oil).

This stinks!ing

I am looking at getting a 70 convertible and was wandering how parts are to get trim chrome and body parts I did a 67 Cuda and some parts are hard to come by. Do not want same experience any help would be great

Well I made my son and I very happy last night when I scored 2 tickets to the Walt Disney world grand opening of the new Star Wars movie the force awakens! Which also includes a huge party in the park, the first to ride new star wars rides, fireworks, dance party catered food and all the star wars characters. I don't know who is more excited me or my 10 year old son!! I grew up seeing the original in the movies in 1977. YES I AM A STAR WARS NERD!! It will be a blast down in Florida!!

Here's a few shots of something I did this summer. First the "before" photos. No surprise for those who've done this before. This is the first time the driveline had ever been apart...

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Some insight please?

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Greetings -

I've had this car practically forever, but it's an original, and I'm taking some of it apart for literally the first time ever. So, lots of this is new to me, and I appreciate the help of those of you who've done this before. I'm putting new anti-sway bar links and bushings on my '67 R/T, and have a few questions.

Since my simple projects typically grow into more involved ones, I decided to remove the bar for restoration while I had the ends unfastened. My intent was to remove the mounting brackets, blast and refinish everything back to original, and install with new end links.

After getting the anti-sway bar out on the floor, it appears that the mounting brackets were factory welded around the bushings and bar. I'm assuming there's no non-destructive way to remove the brackets. Mine are in great shape, and original, so I'm not interested in replacing them. If anyone has a non-destructive removal method, please let me know.

Does anyone know the correct factory finish on the mounting brackets? Mine have a rust finish, so I'm assuming that they were probably either zinc plated or just left bare. Any ideas? Regarding the bar itself, I cleaned a portion of the center with a toothbrush, and found a non-coated, bare heat treated steel finish. Much like the drum brake backing plates, or leaf springs. This is the way I intend refinish the bar itself.

If I can't get the mounts off the bar, then I plan to scoot them back and forth, mechanically strip the bar and components, and refinish everything insitu. This will be harder than being able to disassemble everything and do the parts separately, but is do-able.

Cheers!

JD

Took a wire brush to it and a good cleaning. Then did the etching primer. Looking good and drying to the grey that it was on the can.


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