Since Jeff was doing his front end, I decided it was time to redo the brakes on my car are what I put on my 66 back in 2003 before they made them. Never had any problem with them, had firm pedal but figured time to redo them.  I did it before you could get lot of this stuff repopped, so spent day in junkyard..    Put in a small bore MC and a prop valve for the rear since they didn't make distribution blocks for front disk setup yet.

Took MC out drained it. While it looked clear at first, once I poured rest into pan, it was lot of rust stuff around. 

     

Tried to seperate the pushrod from the master cylinder..glad there wasn't a core on it..

   

Found out new MC's don't come with the pushrod bushing anymore.  Luckily Detroit Muscle had them and didn't rake me over coals for shipping

   

Fronts still had lot of meat on them...  but even with the heavy duty police interceptor pads in them, it was still lot of effort to stop. 

   
   

Backs were dry, but wasn't going to take chance. Bought some smaller bore wheel cylinders and put them in. Taking them out because the bleeder screws are metric and despite being a smaller WC overall, the screws were almost 2x longer than stock ones. 

   
     

Still had firm pedal despite fact inner seals were leaking by.

   
   

Left all hoses detached, and blew out lines to try and get most old fluid out.

I had been hearing a bang from right rear when backing out of driveway and could never find it, always thought it was sway bar binding..  think it was something else..

   

Wanted to replace the Wilwood proportioning valve but the one I got the adjustment screw flopped around like old lady strip night at the bar so just blew bunch brake clean thru it and put back on..

Waiting for parts to finish front up.. and have to get new bleeder pump.. Mityvac does not stand test of time..

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/...13610.html


Wish it was

Wonder if prices will come out of the stratosphere now..  everytime I saw his stuff, it was made out of unobtanium with heavy coating of rust..

https://vansauto.com/tonys-reproduction-...d-by-vans/

I have a 1967 Coronet 440 that I restored.  I put a Ron Francis wiring harness in the car.  Everything in the car works except for the windsheld wiper motor.  When I turn the wiper switch on, the wiper blades try to move down.  I've tried to find the wiring diagram for the wiper motor on the internet with no success.  I would greatly appreciate it if someone could help me either point me in the right direction to a wiring diagram or a aftermarket fix so that would solve this problem.

Sometimes gotta make your own tools to get a job done,  and despite what people say, Vice Grips do have their limits..  so if you made your own, post em..


My test light disappeared after I lent it to someone, so took a old rear turn signal socket and made my own..

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Got tired of having a fuel gauge that never read right even though sender and VR was replaced.    Tanks Inc makes a product called Meter Match that adjusts for variations in fuel sending units and older fuel gauges in the dash, or even if you have a custom tank.  It installs inline with your existing sender unit circuit,  I mounted mine in the trunk as that was easiest to access the sending unit line, and had to run a switched 18ga 12V line back to it.  Tried to tap off the electric fuel pump but the ECU shuts off the pump at the relay once it reaches the preset PSI in the ECU so no gauge unless pump is running.  

Read the instructions thoroughly before you attempt to calibrate it.  (PM me for more info).  Especially the end, as it addresses older Mopars and Fords because of the VR in the dash.  If you run into an issue, do not hesitate to call them.  Ask for Chris,  He will walk you thru calibrating it as each make/model car is different.  I did mine with a full tank and calibrated that way. Siphoned out about 9-10 galllons, gauge dropped to below half, which is about right for a 19gal tank.  Added 5 gallons back (had to dump the other in my truck as I didn't have another empty 5 gallon can), and gauge moved to 3/4 full, which is about right.  


Best part...  Made in America..  and they give you a screwdriver to take it apart and make the adjustment with.  

Thanks to Andy for pointing it out to me..  I've been on their site dozens of times (I used their drop in EFI pump and weld in recess on my tank, as well as few other things and never saw it).  

   


   

The diff is leaking on Pynky's convertible. Time to get to work -




Nice huh?

I purchased a new filler neck from Classic.  It has a bracket on it.  The old one does not.  What does the bracket attach to?  The car has had many changes by previous owners any may be missing some parts.  I do no see what the bracket attaches to.

I am having a replacement fender tag made for my 67 with 3:91 suretrac axle.
I need the code for this for my new tag,please

I'm rebuilding the front end on my 67, the strut rods that came out were both bent so I opted for the Calvert adjustable. How should I install/adjust them prior to taking the car for an alignment ?

Just get them snug and don't tighten the lock bolt down maybe?