Hello, I'm buying a 69' Coronet R/T .. the car had an electrical fire and burned up the harnesses. I asked around Mopar sites and figured it's time to come to the source. I've been told the best to to choose from was, American Wire, M&H, and Evans for all the harnesses I need. Need the headlight, engine and dash harnesses. Looking here for some opinions. .. Thanks Dave

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Thank you all you Veterans out there.

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Anyone know what the brake pedal ratio is for a 66-70?   Not home so can't measure.

Since I am putting a replacement exhaust manifold on Junior I was looking at gaskets checking port sizes and all then I remember most of the new engine builds I did they were installed with no gaskets just a thin film of high temp sealant. This is if your manifold is flat. I will put a pipe gasket on.

  I would like to hear what you guys do and have good luck with.

Very nice used, most would consider exceptional due to rarity.

Not perfect. But very high quality used parts. 

You will see some very light fracture marks in plastic when lit behind from bulb due to age. 

No repairs have been made to these lenses. I score them as 85-90% nice originals.

Selling as a matching set only.  Lenses only. No housings 

PM for more detailed pictures if you're interested.

$525 plus shipping from 48170 Plymouth, Mi 

           

Since Jeff was doing his front end, I decided it was time to redo the brakes on my car are what I put on my 66 back in 2003 before they made them. Never had any problem with them, had firm pedal but figured time to redo them.  I did it before you could get lot of this stuff repopped, so spent day in junkyard..    Put in a small bore MC and a prop valve for the rear since they didn't make distribution blocks for front disk setup yet.

Took MC out drained it. While it looked clear at first, once I poured rest into pan, it was lot of rust stuff around. 

     

Tried to seperate the pushrod from the master cylinder..glad there wasn't a core on it..

   

Found out new MC's don't come with the pushrod bushing anymore.  Luckily Detroit Muscle had them and didn't rake me over coals for shipping

   

Fronts still had lot of meat on them...  but even with the heavy duty police interceptor pads in them, it was still lot of effort to stop. 

   
   

Backs were dry, but wasn't going to take chance. Bought some smaller bore wheel cylinders and put them in. Taking them out because the bleeder screws are metric and despite being a smaller WC overall, the screws were almost 2x longer than stock ones. 

   
     

Still had firm pedal despite fact inner seals were leaking by.

   
   

Left all hoses detached, and blew out lines to try and get most old fluid out.

I had been hearing a bang from right rear when backing out of driveway and could never find it, always thought it was sway bar binding..  think it was something else..

   

Wanted to replace the Wilwood proportioning valve but the one I got the adjustment screw flopped around like old lady strip night at the bar so just blew bunch brake clean thru it and put back on..

Waiting for parts to finish front up.. and have to get new bleeder pump.. Mityvac does not stand test of time..

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/...13610.html


Wish it was

Wonder if prices will come out of the stratosphere now..  everytime I saw his stuff, it was made out of unobtanium with heavy coating of rust..

https://vansauto.com/tonys-reproduction-...d-by-vans/

I have a 1967 Coronet 440 that I restored.  I put a Ron Francis wiring harness in the car.  Everything in the car works except for the windsheld wiper motor.  When I turn the wiper switch on, the wiper blades try to move down.  I've tried to find the wiring diagram for the wiper motor on the internet with no success.  I would greatly appreciate it if someone could help me either point me in the right direction to a wiring diagram or a aftermarket fix so that would solve this problem.