I am helping a friend restore his 69 Road Runner vert. He got as a basket case.
The console top he has is chrome ribbed like a 67-68, I told him I think it is supposed to be wood grain.
Looking for some advice on wheel sizes before I buy the AR Outlaw 1 wheels I want
So my car in the pic below on the rear has
15 x 8 3.75â Backspace 295/50/15 tires
The wheels I want I can either go for exactly the same as whatâs on there , eg 15 x 8 with 3.75â BS and use my current tires
Or Iâm tempted to go 15 x 10 which has a 4â BS, again using my current tires
Iâm a bit confused though , so if you look at my tires they are really bulgy I guess because they are on 15 x 8âs , so if I fit 15 x 10âs I know it will make the tire less bulging but will it push the wheel out towards the arch more ? Or will it look similar to how it is now ? Eg the same distance between the edge of the tire and the arch as it is now ?
Currently thereâs about 1.5â bulge on that tire, i seem to have plenty of room still
Ideally I want 15 x 10 but I donât want to push it too far towards the arch lip
What would you do ? Stick with 15 x 8âs or go with the 15 x 10 ?
Anything you wanted to know about most popular A, B/RB/Hemi pans is located here.. won't find it on their site anymore since they got bought out but found a copy of it.
My tires are little long in the tooth (17rs)... not showing dry rot, on side but definetely don't grip like they did. What brand you guys running? Drag slicks not on the table as I can't run a loop with my overdrive. I don't want BFG Radial T/A's, specs n them are garbage.
I got 215/70/15 on 7.5? rims (not 8's althought I got a pair) up front and 255/60/15 (biggest) out back.. Weren't bad tires in their day, but now not so good..
First was this 57 Chevy 2 dr post car. Had a 283 PowerPack that even though had the air cleaner on it and was covered, water still got inside the cylinders, and in winter froze and pushed the cylinder wall into the water jacket. Every body mount, floor piece and body panel was rusted, even the heater assembly was toast. Even in 83, you could buy all these parts, the Tri-5 Chevy's were the first cars you could almost build from a catalog. The killer of the car was when unbolted the lower control arm, the frame was missing where it bolted in the back. Only good parts on the car was the stainless trim, not a nick or dent in any of it. Unfortunately, those got destroyed in the house fire.
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Other was my 66 Coronet. I knew of the rust in engine compartment, but rest of car looked solid when I bought it. But after having to cut the upper control arm bolts out and finding one side with holes in shock tower, I should have dug into it more. Instead, decided to "restore it". Pulled the carpets, and the front floors were rotted so fixed them and the trans crossmember. Then I found out a sagging rear bumper on a B-body isn't just a rusty bumper mount. That's when I tore into it and found it needed 3 frame rails, 2 shock towers, inner fenders, quarters, rear crossmembers. Beyond my ability to fix at the time both financially and time/space wise, the junkyard charged me to haul it away.
A big thank you to Andy for helping me out... I lost my breather element on a test drive,and Andy sent me a one that makes my car looks like a stock motor now.. and he's sending me a 402 oil pan to replace my unrepairable 971. The charge? Not a friggin dime, not even for shipping. Hes one of the few good ones left, a friend I wish lived closer to so he could help me with my fuckups..
He's one of the dying breed, willing to help those that need it.
Hi All, good to be back in to the site again.
I was wondering if the owner of the production numbers post (used to be a sticky and floated to the top of the list) could post it again.
I wanted to recall if my 1969 Coronet 500 Vert with 383 HP was 1 of 389? I just can't remember. It was also cool to see some of the really rare years as well. Have fun.
Which is better at sealing, Viton or Rubber? Put a rubber one it, it lasted a few days. Seen the FastFish one piece one, read some good, lotta bad about it.
My 1967 440 needs some paint help. I have a few rust bubbles in the usual places at the bottom of the doors and quarter panels. The rest of the car looks near perfect. Can anyone recommend a great paint and body shop that can cut out the rust spots on the bottom of my car and color match my metallic green paint? I would have them re-paint everything up the the body side molding. Thanks for the help....Andy.