I have been dragging this complete set of 67 grill surrounds for over 40 years.
They were taken off a car in around 1970 and were chromed.
The guy wanted to chrome the whole front end of his 67 500 but nothing got put back on.
In 1982 I bought a truckload of NOS and perfect 67 parts. Most of the parts were chromed but never installed.
I have been asked to sell these to someone needing a set, but have no clue how much $$$$ I should sell them for.
I looked on eBay.ca sold area and cannot find any that sold recently.
I have net been on here for awhile and no idea how to post a picture. ??
Any help on how to post a picture and pricing would be appreciated
Figured since swapping bearings I'd dissect a "Green" bearing and show what it's made of. I'm sure other done, it, but never seen it here. Think most just press em off and on and throw em away.
To do this, I used an electric grinder with a thin cut off wheel over a air driven cut off wheel. It cut thru the material like butter. Total time to remove the entire deal, 15 minutes both axles. Took longer to put fire out on the piece of cardboard I had sparks hit.
First is a brand new one. The "improved" design over the original MP one, Attachment plate on left, then the bearing, you can see the snap ring that holds the bearing in place against backing plate, which from what I gather means if you got a clutch type Sure-Grip unit, you don't have to pull the thrust washers. Just below it is the oil seal to keep any oil that might leak past the inner seal from getting by. Supposedly you don't need the inner seal any longer, but I ran it just in case. You can see the seals covering up the bearings inside, and finally the locking retainer.
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Now here's what it looks like apart.
The Attachment plate is untouched, The retaining ring is actually like a piston ring, it just wraps around and the oil ring just slides right off.
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Now for the bearing and seals... The bearings are ball bearings riding in a groove on the inner race and held in place with a plastic retainer. What holds in this place? The 2 plastic seals on each side of the bearing/retainer, with a rubber wiper to prevent axle grease from getting out. and it's not super tough plastic either in regards to the race or the seal, a dull set of dykes cut thru it like it was nothing, the spring on the seal gave up more than a fight. Then finally the locking retainer. So basically, when making a turn, the only thing keeping the axle sliding is a piece of plastic, and while it's impossible for the bearings to leave the housing, it's gonna make the ass end of your car wobble like crazy because that bearing retainer or plastic side piece is not the strongest in the wold. Again, those dull dyke cut thru it like butter.
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Here's half the retainer, as you can see, the bearings ride in that groove, and nothing other than that plastic seal keeping it from coming out. 2 side grooves are for the side seals. You can see how the bearing has lots of support on a turn where side load is against the wheel side (ie left turn has lots support, right has minimal) Notice how little grease there is in there (the bearing was lot leaking when I took it apart)..
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And here's a pic of half the bearing retainer and bearing setup while still attached to the axles. Ignore the hammer marks on the retainer, I forgot how stupid it was to try and chisel them off.
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If doing this at home cause you don't have a press or the machine shops are clueless, you may be tempted to cut the retainer lock off first. Don't, do the outer bearing first. I cut a horizontal line on each side of the bearing, tried not to go all the way thru, then smacked the 2nd cut with a chisel and it fell apart.
Then do the outer retainer lock, line straight down the middle, you don't have to go all way to axle, close enough should be enough to relieve pressure. You may have to do same to other side and then it will slide off. Final inner race may just needed to have 1 cut or do like I did and cut a V and it may slide right off. If not, do same on other side.
So there you go... all you ever wanted to know about green bearings but were afraid to ask.
Rather than spend $4-600 to get my radio converted too FM/Bluetooth or mount newer under dash, I went old school..
When's last time you saw one of these?
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First one died within 10 minutes despite being a refurbished unit, and sounded horrible. Guy sent out a bran new, still in original wrapping and box to replace it. Sounds much better, as best gonna get from a 56yr old radio and 56yr old speaker. Who cares if don't have bluetooth or aux input.
Hello all and thank you for allowing me to be a part of the group. I look forward to meeting you all. I am currently restoring a 67 Coronet R/T and look forward to engaging with everyone. Cheers!
Ok, time to renew the old green vs tapered axle bearing debate..
I run greens, been running them for close to 20yrs no problems. Twisted the splines on a set of stock axles with em. Put em on Mosers I replaced them with. o problems until I stopped doing straight line and started pushing the twisting turns in my area and get a shuddering. repacked front bearings, they were fine, not loose at all. (backing out of driveway down hill without pushing pistons back on calipers, different story)
thoughts? Could the greens and their rumored side load issues be cause? I plan on swapping out the back rims to eliminate them, but rather get opinions from real mopar folk on them. I know sealed bearings are good, because every modern RWD car uses them without a problem, including Hellcats and 170's.. so they do work.
then again, maybe I need more alcohol... add it to blue to see if she'll dip into the 12's..
