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1969 Coronet A39 Super Be...
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  color combos
Posted by: dgc - 01-30-17, 07:08 PM - Forum: Coronet Restoration/Paint Shop/Body Shop - Replies (14)

hey guys brand new on here im getting close to having my 67 rt finished after paint just have some interior work to do its a white car with copper interior has does any one have a pic of that color combo wondering how it will look done

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  Not a Coronet But....sweeeet.
Posted by: Billb66 - 01-29-17, 09:13 PM - Forum: General Discussion - Replies (24)

Just landed in my garage.

70 383 #'s car. The only non original parts are the intake, carb and air cleaner. And the originals were in the trunk..

10370]10371]10372]10373]10374]


Bough new in 1971. Insurance was $350 a year.

10375]

comes with the warranty

10376]

And salesman's business card.

10377]

other cool stuff.
It was St Louis order number 431 so it rolled down the line 101 cars before my 70 coronet. Build date was 7/07/70, St Louis stopped production of the charger on the 10th. Guess that make it a late model 1970 charger.



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  1969 Bee dash emblem
Posted by: mike1968rt - 01-29-17, 02:12 AM - Forum: General Discussion - Replies (1)

Can someone tell me, is there a Bee logo or the word Superbee on the dash above the glove box on 1969 Superbees?

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  Proper Throttle Pressure Adjustment (AKA) Kick down linkage Adjustment
Posted by: Hibbing_Coronet_500 - 01-27-17, 04:11 PM - Forum: DIY Tech Forum - Replies (2)

Just want to share this Youtube video I found on the subject of throttle pressure adjustments. Otherwise known as the kick down adjustment. After watching this corny filmstrip from the 1970`s I realized that I was setting my kick down linkage WRONG!!!!

Also with the throttle pressure valve improperly adjusted another lesser known side effect is torque converter drain back if left sitting for more than a few days.
The throttle pressure valve needs to be closed when the engine is off. If its open, the converter will draw air through the open throttle pressure valve and drain back into the the pan causing a over full condition in the transmission pan. ( Then oil seeps from everywhere it can )

For those who have suffered countless pan gasket replacement trying to solve this crime scene found every time your mopar sits a few days might want to watch this video.

My 67 left sitting more than a few days would have a massive oil puddle under it.
I made the adjustment and all is perfect except a tiny main seal drip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsfI9cFFPpg

Good Luck and Enjoy

Joe

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  Wire clip on the alternator? Anyone have a pic or diagram?
Posted by: 67RTBlue - 01-17-17, 07:23 PM - Forum: Tech Q&A - Replies (2)

Does anyone know if our car should have it? I've seen them being sold and I don't know how or where it goes? It is a metal 3-4 finger tab with a single screw that I assume mounts on the back of the alternator some where?

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  Uni-Lug adapters-anyone have some originals?
Posted by: 67RTBlue - 01-16-17, 09:16 PM - Forum: Tech Q&A - Replies (1)

10356]
I have reproductions but they are too tight a fit. They want shave the sides of the recess which will result in shavings collecting under them and will not seat flat. I can grind them but not in a hurry to do 20! Originals used a square shoulder lug where the repops have a taper design.
Thoughts?



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  Poly 318 Oil
Posted by: Avenger - 01-13-17, 11:32 PM - Forum: Tech Q&A - Replies (10)

I've been using rotella 15-40 for a bit and have read they are lowering the zinc levels in it.. i was almost decided on Quaker state defy with the zinc levels and phosphorous levels that are in it for flat tappets..until i found out that they are discontinuing it.. im almost thinking about switching to mobil 1.. they actually have zinc levels and phosphorous levels listed on their website. the levels of zinc and phosphorous: the 10-40 has 1100 ppm of zinc and 1000 of phosphorous ..where the 15-50 has 1600 zinc and 1200 phosphorous.. the 15-50 wouldn't be too heavy as i have run 20-50 before with decent results..but im just curious if the 10-40 with the zinc and phos content it has would be enough for a stock engine with just a 4 barrel..(mainly because its easier to find especially in 5 quart jugs compared to the 15-50) also does anyone here have any opinions on our older engines running synthetic and what do you think on the various mobil oils i have mentioned? Last thought is i want something i can just buy at an auto parts store or walmart since i drive to carlisle and i just want ease of buying it.. i keep extra in the trunk going to carlisle but i just want something i can use/buy with peace of mind finding it in traveling just in case
Thanks
-John

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  Meaning of crayon marks on the trunk lid
Posted by: 67RTBlue - 01-12-17, 07:10 PM - Forum: Coronet Restoration/Paint Shop/Body Shop - Replies (7)

Heard these were for original tires? Ours has "SHY". Car had red lines originally.
Best photo I could take of my video when the car was untouched.
10351]



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  What wheel offset do I need?
Posted by: WH41 - 01-10-17, 10:46 PM - Forum: Modernize your Coronet - No Replies

I have. 1966 coronet 4 dr with 14x5 steel wheels. I want to up size to 15 inch wheels to make it easier to do a front brake conversion. Not sure if I should go 15 x 6 or 15 x7 and what offset I need. Want to keep it stock looking but make the brake conversion painless. Did the original 14's have a offset? Will 215 70 r tires fit fine front and back? Any help would be apprieciated.

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  New members presentation from Italy
Posted by: Musclecargarageitaly - 01-10-17, 06:19 PM - Forum: New Members - Replies (4)

Hi , thanks for adding at forum !
I am writing from Italy and i have a musclecar shop where I restore mopar muscle ...
I am so sorry for my bad slang .
I am restoring several cars but right now I am working on my personal car. She is 1968 coronet r/t and i would ask some specs during restorations ?
Thanks again

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