http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3588895018.html

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http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/3585175132.html

my coronet already has the auto shifter on the floor and i want to keep it a console car but ive heard alot about having wiring issues when it comes to do with that i dont even know where to begin lol with the reverse lights and the console lights anyone have any advise or instructions on how i can go about doing that??

My 1969 Dodge Coronet 440 vin # WH23G9Gxxxxxx, works out to a 383 2v, 727, 8 3/4 rear, Manual drums all the way around, Power steering, A/C, triple Green (F8), mag slots (rims), I bought it in Utah years ago. It had very little rust for a Utah (northern) car floorboards are solid no rust, just some in the trunk and rear lower quarters about the size of a silver dollar, not Bad. I did a title search in Utah and found the car was brought from out of state in 1984. but they could not tell me any info about where it came from. My question is this; did Dodge sell cars in a specific area base on where the car was built? or could a car built in Mo. be trucked and sold anywhere in America. Also did Mo. plant handle overseas sold cars. The other owner I think was in the AF and was stationed in Ut. then sold the car in 1986?? Thanks for any info or ideas!

I finally got the time to cut the line today... How do i remove this spring thing so i can.. On the front it slides back.. In the back (this picture) its bent and wont move.. How do you guys get around this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-Dodg...4d0a55787b

This beauty was seen around the region last Saturday and Sunday. The weather was great over here so many people brought their Old Iron out to take advantage of it. We were told that the clock on this one has 28,000 original miles on it.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=...=1&theater


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=...=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=...=1&theater

On my '68 Bee (383), I have something that I can't figure out. When the car is cold, the system doesn't charge. After several minutes, it charges ok and stays that way. I'm thinking that something warms up and makes a connection. I had gone through the whole system last year and put on a new alternator, and new voltage reg (one of the stock looking solid state jobs). I've also checked everything for good grounds and have cleaned all the bulkhead contacts. I still have the stock amp gauge but I also have a volt meter that is wired directly to the battery. It always starts out at 11.90 and goes to about 12.1 volts before it jumps up to 13.6-14.0 volts. Any ideas?

http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/pts/3660754762.html