Just wondering if anyone here had ideas on what santa(themselves or significant others) was going to get them for Christmas?
I think Santa is going to bring me a new six pack set of carbs! but after Santa is done delivering to all the good boys and girls so it wont happen until January.

Dowel pins for bellhousing that go into block.

Mopar part number 1122532 (still available from dealer)

My car was just put away at my mates garage. He will store my car in a warm garage space while we rebuild the engine, gearbox and rear end.


The plan is to get the engine completely refreshed and most likely add some HP to the mix. My car has the original engine in it, same with the gearbox, my rear end is not the original one, it was changed at some point to a 489 case 8 3/4 with open wheeler center 3.23:1 ratio.


Overall I want the engine bay to be as CLOSE to looking stock as possible. This is going to be a challenge and sure real MOPAR people will know what we have done, but all my original parts will be retained so it could go back to stock , head-wise etc.


The plan:


The engine is coming out on the 15th of this month (November) - My mate and I will be taking it out.
Disassemble the engine entirely, check bores etc. Determine what we need to rebore to, machine work etc.
Based on the machine work choices, select the new pistons ring packs etc. My thoughts are leaning towards flat tops, modern style ones. Compression aims for this engine are for near stock levels of compression.
Cam will most likely be Hughes Whiplash ROLLER Cam that has the following specs:


Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5 .510"
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .521"


Intake Valve Lift 1.6 .544"
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .555"


Intake Duration at .050" 228°
Exhaust Duration at .050" 236°


Lobe Separation Angle 107º


Intake Opening at .050" 12° BTC
Exhaust Opening at .050" 50° BBC


Intake Closing at .050" 36° ABC
Exhaust Closing at .050" 6° ATC


Heads are a choice between the RPM's or the new 'Garlits' ones. I am leaning towards the Garlits ones, I am interested in them and have been talking to the guy doing the machine work on them already.
Intake will be something from Edelbrock, no choice yet. And a Holley DP of some type.
Exhaust manifolds will be changing from my stock LOG TYPE, to HP repros from Year One. They are ordered already, but long lead time from Y1. They are saying they won't ship until early December, not a problem..it's winter.
Exhaust system will include QTP Electric cut outs, and most likely a Magnaflow system, with H-Pipe, 2.5" at this point.
Diff will get an Eaton truetrac center, we will use my gears, so I will stay with 3.23:1


We have not decided to by bare heads and build them ourselves or get them built already. I have offers on both ways from Hughes for the RPM's and Toth Performance.



Today a mate and I took the engine out, gearbox out, removed the Diff center too. Then we disassembled the engine as well. SO it is now ready to go to the machinist for cleaning, checking and any work that it might need. From the looks of it, not very much work is needed. We will most likely line bore it though, since one crank journal looks to have suffered from lack of oil, most likely at the start of it's life.


But a lot of GREAT news.


I am as close to 100% sure now that this is the genuine original engine for my car!


Check the stamp out on one of the cam bearings:




From what I gather, bearing is Clevite 77, stamped 9th month 1966. if I am wrong about this please let me know. But if this is correct, it all makes perfect sense, since my car was built November 22nd 1966.




More evidence, My block has the cast numbers and what I believe is the cast date:


2468130 put's the block in the correct time frame and the 7 66, would be 7th month 1966 cast date..What do you all think? I believe this is correct, and fits with my cars build date.



My heads have the numbers: 2406516



I am not using them, although they are in great condition. But I will clean them up and store them in case I sell the car and the next owner wants to take it back to stock. (for the record I am never planning to sell this car..But silly money offered..she's gone LOL)


I have a question for the gurus..


Since everything points to this engine never being worked on, at least the bottom end, we could not work out why the color of the rods were like this? Forgive my ignorance on big blocks, as this is the first one I have ever pulled apart that was original. And all my other builds back in the day were on Mopar small blocks. But I have never seen rods like this (color wise). Did Ma Mopar coat them with copper?



And this is why we are going to check the crank for straightness and line hone the block.


Looks like this journal starved for oil at some point.



None of the other journals or mains show any signs of movement or vibration. Piston walls all look new, bores are still rock stock bore size. So we will go 030 on this when we bore it. (purely because 030 pistons seem easier to get than 010. I am not sure why this is? Anyone know?


So that's it for today..a final car porn shot..

I start her up this morning to bring her to my buddies barn. Turn right to go to the barn or turn left and take one last ride? Yup, turn left and go! Then, she dies. Ugh. Wouldn't turn back over. I was on an incline. I think it's carburetor related. But, had to have her towed to the barn. Guess I'll deal with it in the spring. My Mini is happy, gets a spot back in the garage ;-)


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Dug the new motor out from under the bench and got it on the stand.. From what I can see, the heads were milled a bit. Any way to tell how much without pulling the heads off?

I'm fairly sure not, but before I go tearing it down to check head volume, figured I'd see if there was some old school trick to checking.

Buy it and you can park the 1 of 2 next to the 1 of 1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Coronet-R-...ars_Trucks

Link to the Timken catalog. While the parts may not be always available, they can be cross referenced to other brands that might be.

http://timken.com/en-us/products/Documen..._older.pdf

This sweet heart is a clean machine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Coronet-44...ars_Trucks

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Take a look at the video, what you guys think I should I cut out and replace? The hump is good and the passenger side even though it looks bad I wasn't able to penetrate through with a body (pick) hammer. Maybe some POR015 or not a chance?


I am wondering if a turbo action shift would fit it I put the buddy seat back in...slow news day here I am not in a rush for any of this..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6ahbbLb...e=youtu.be