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Posts: 179
Threads: 24
Joined: Jan 2013
Oh, and to go on the record: I assume the carbon buildup is worse on the last two due to the blockage. Let me know if my guess is right.
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The center port being blocked? That's the exhaust crossover full of carbon. only downside to it being plugged is it will take a long time to come off choke. Since you got the head off, use a screwdriver to clean it out.
The 2 back cylinders being more carboned up than the front?
1) It could be the intake gasket on the front 2 cylinders was leaking, causing the engine to run leaner on those 2 cylinders, causing the carbon to burn off.
2) Or, the back 2 cyilnders have loose valve guides, and that's letting oil down into the combustion chamber and you're seeing the results of that.
3) Another cause could be you have a leaking head gasket or cracked block/head on those 2 cylinders, and coolant is leaking into the cylinder and flashing to steam. Over time that's loosened the carbon off the pistons and blown it out the exhaust.
Because the crossover was plugged with carbon, I'm gonna go with #2
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
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Also, When I took the manifold off the only "gasket" there was the heat block off... does that act as the gasket as well?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-42...make/dodge
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Zaq Wrote:Also, When I took the manifold off the only "gasket" there was the heat block off... does that act as the gasket as well?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-42...make/dodge
Yes
The Idaho Andy
OL Blue is scared of Max
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+1 to everything 67440Dodge said.
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Cool, thanks guys! I am going to check the valve guides to see if there is anything noticeably different. Is there a way to "tighten them up" or is it just a replace them kind of thing? Also, I haven't completely given up on that last stud... I'm going to try one more time now that it's out of the car.
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No way to tighten the valve stems other than replacing the valves and valve guides, usually with a bronze bushing. If you try to remove a valve from the head with the head off the block without smoothing the burrs where the valve stem locking keys sit then you run the risk of scratching the inside of the valve guide and make matters even worse. You will need a valve spring compressor for this job and a compressed air source with the appropriate spark plug fitting to charge the cylinder with air in the event the valve slips down into the cylinder with the piston in its downward-most positoin. The compressed air holds the valve up for inspection. Ask me how I know that, LOL. You have the head off and I assume will be doing the other head as well so this isn't an issue, just thought I would mention it. While the head is off, really clean the mating surfaces of both the heads AND the block/intake and inspect for any cracked cast iron or warped surfaces. Whenever I have a head off I put oiled shop rags in the cylinders to help keep the inevitable dirt residues out of the cylinders. Inspect everything with a fine-toothed comb and aboe all...have fun doing all of this!
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Get us a shot of the combustion chambers on the head. For a week end cruiser I wouldn't be very worried. I might how ever suggest you have some one you know and trust look at everything before you start cleaning it up.
Taking the head off is not defeat, just annother way of removing the broken stud, and a safer one at that.
To check valve guides, you need to remove the valve springs with a valve spring compressor, then check how much they wiggle side to side at the valve head end. If they are not too bad I'd suggest you just change the valve seals to a positive locking type. NAPA lists one for alll Mopars, they are the same from the /6 to the HEMI. If you need, I can get you the number. I use them on every engine I go through to cut down on oil consumption.
Good luck.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
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4264door Wrote:No way to tighten the valve stems other than replacing the valves and valve guides, usually with a bronze bushing. If you try to remove a valve from the head with the head off the block without smoothing the burrs where the valve stem locking keys sit then you run the risk of scratching the inside of the valve guide and make matters even worse. You will need a valve spring compressor for this job and a compressed air source with the appropriate spark plug fitting to charge the cylinder with air in the event the valve slips down into the cylinder with the piston in its downward-most positoin. The compressed air holds the valve up for inspection. Ask me how I know that, LOL. You have the head off and I assume will be doing the other head as well so this isn't an issue, just thought I would mention it. While the head is off, really clean the mating surfaces of both the heads AND the block/intake and inspect for any cracked cast iron or warped surfaces. Whenever I have a head off I put oiled shop rags in the cylinders to help keep the inevitable dirt residues out of the cylinders. Inspect everything with a fine-toothed comb and aboe all...have fun doing all of this!
I just put something in the DIY section about doing it without needing a air compressor..
http://www.dodgecoronet.com/forum/showth...9#post2489
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
