Well... I'm tired of fighting with the rear most manifold stud so I took the head off to take it to a machine shop. I HATE admitting defeat almost as much as I hate letting other people do work I feel like I can do (but I obviously can't).
Anyway, I don't know the first thing about engine internals (Okay, maybe the FIRST thing I do know, what things do what) but I don't have a clue what they should look like and what they shouldn't look like. So, after I took it apart I snapped a few shots so you guys can help me out! Lucky you!
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Pic 1 and 2: Looks like a lot of carbon buildup on the pistons. Anything to be concerned about? I expected to see some but have no idea what an acceptable amount is.
Pic 3 and 4: This is the head as it sits on the garage floor... the middle "port" seems to be completely blocked by something. It was not this way on the passenger side... this was the most concerning thing that I saw. Should I pop it out and see what it is?
Pic 5: Everything looks fine to me but figured I would post it incase there is something to look for that I am not aware of.
Took the pictures with my Nikon to make sure they were big enough but let me know if there is something else I should be taking a picture of to post and check out. Thanks everyone!
Oh, and to go on the record: I assume the carbon buildup is worse on the last two due to the blockage. Let me know if my guess is right.
The center port being blocked? That's the exhaust crossover full of carbon. only downside to it being plugged is it will take a long time to come off choke. Since you got the head off, use a screwdriver to clean it out.
The 2 back cylinders being more carboned up than the front?
1) It could be the intake gasket on the front 2 cylinders was leaking, causing the engine to run leaner on those 2 cylinders, causing the carbon to burn off.
2) Or, the back 2 cyilnders have loose valve guides, and that's letting oil down into the combustion chamber and you're seeing the results of that.
3) Another cause could be you have a leaking head gasket or cracked block/head on those 2 cylinders, and coolant is leaking into the cylinder and flashing to steam. Over time that's loosened the carbon off the pistons and blown it out the exhaust.
Because the crossover was plugged with carbon, I'm gonna go with #2
+1 to everything 67440Dodge said.
Cool, thanks guys! I am going to check the valve guides to see if there is anything noticeably different. Is there a way to "tighten them up" or is it just a replace them kind of thing? Also, I haven't completely given up on that last stud... I'm going to try one more time now that it's out of the car.
No way to tighten the valve stems other than replacing the valves and valve guides, usually with a bronze bushing. If you try to remove a valve from the head with the head off the block without smoothing the burrs where the valve stem locking keys sit then you run the risk of scratching the inside of the valve guide and make matters even worse. You will need a valve spring compressor for this job and a compressed air source with the appropriate spark plug fitting to charge the cylinder with air in the event the valve slips down into the cylinder with the piston in its downward-most positoin. The compressed air holds the valve up for inspection. Ask me how I know that, LOL. You have the head off and I assume will be doing the other head as well so this isn't an issue, just thought I would mention it. While the head is off, really clean the mating surfaces of both the heads AND the block/intake and inspect for any cracked cast iron or warped surfaces. Whenever I have a head off I put oiled shop rags in the cylinders to help keep the inevitable dirt residues out of the cylinders. Inspect everything with a fine-toothed comb and aboe all...have fun doing all of this!
Get us a shot of the combustion chambers on the head. For a week end cruiser I wouldn't be very worried. I might how ever suggest you have some one you know and trust look at everything before you start cleaning it up.
Taking the head off is not defeat, just annother way of removing the broken stud, and a safer one at that.
To check valve guides, you need to remove the valve springs with a valve spring compressor, then check how much they wiggle side to side at the valve head end. If they are not too bad I'd suggest you just change the valve seals to a positive locking type. NAPA lists one for alll Mopars, they are the same from the /6 to the HEMI. If you need, I can get you the number. I use them on every engine I go through to cut down on oil consumption.
Good luck.
4264door Wrote:No way to tighten the valve stems other than replacing the valves and valve guides, usually with a bronze bushing. If you try to remove a valve from the head with the head off the block without smoothing the burrs where the valve stem locking keys sit then you run the risk of scratching the inside of the valve guide and make matters even worse. You will need a valve spring compressor for this job and a compressed air source with the appropriate spark plug fitting to charge the cylinder with air in the event the valve slips down into the cylinder with the piston in its downward-most positoin. The compressed air holds the valve up for inspection. Ask me how I know that, LOL. You have the head off and I assume will be doing the other head as well so this isn't an issue, just thought I would mention it. While the head is off, really clean the mating surfaces of both the heads AND the block/intake and inspect for any cracked cast iron or warped surfaces. Whenever I have a head off I put oiled shop rags in the cylinders to help keep the inevitable dirt residues out of the cylinders. Inspect everything with a fine-toothed comb and aboe all...have fun doing all of this!
I just put something in the DIY section about doing it without needing a air compressor..
http://www.dodgecoronet.com/forum/showth...9#post2489