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Engine Install
#11
Thanks Mark. Definitely a street car and stock setup. I'll look at the one I have and let you know. Thanks for the offer.
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#12
Hi Mark - Had to order some stuff from Summit, so I picked up an ATP Z-196 (http://atpautomotive.com/flexplate-z-196). The TC bolt pattern is 10" and matches my TC exactly. What is off is the hole diameter. The holes are 3/8" and the bolts that match the TC are 5/16. Wondering if this is on purpose to assist in attaching the FP to the TC when the tranny is bolted in place.

My second question - The FP circle where it bolts to the crank is indented. I haven't looked closely at the setup, but does the indent (valley) go against the crank or does the peak?

Thanks as always!
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#13
Attached is a picture of the 2 flex plates that would fit your torque converter. Yours is obviously the smaller hole one. This is an OEM flexplate and the holes are around 0.350", so yours at 0.375" is a little big but probably ok.

However, definitely use these bolts! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-240-7301 Call ARP for torque recommendations if not included, and use red Loctite!!!!!!

The flexplate will only go on one way against the crank - the recessed part is against the crank.

Good luck!

12105


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67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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#14
Thanks Mark. Those are the bolts I bought and I have the loctite, so good there. With any luck at all at the end of the weekend, my next pics will have an engine and tranny in the car for the first time in over 10 years!
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#15
Arts67 Wrote:Thanks Mark. Those are the bolts I bought and I have the loctite, so good there. With any luck at all at the end of the weekend, my next pics will have an engine and tranny in the car for the first time in over 10 years!

Awesome! Just make sure you get the proper torque for those bolts. If you don't get any other info, torque them to 22 lb-ft with red loctite.

The flex plate to crank stock bolts is 55 lb-ft but ARP bolts are much higher. Follow ARP torques if that is what you have. Use Blue Loctite on that and reduce the torque 10-15% from the ARP specified torque with blue loctite. I would go 50 lb-ft if you use stock bolts with blue loctite.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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#16
Mark just read your comment. I had the crank bolts (not ARP as they were already with the engine) installed with the red loctite but couldn’t get more than 45# out of the torque wrench, they won’t budge further. I’ve since removed them. I think we have a bigger problem. I did a check fit of the TC before putting it into the tranny and there is a big gap between the tabs and the raised bolt plates on the TC. Pic 1 shows this. So I looked at the crank hole where the TC hub sits. Pic 2 shows this. There is a protruding ring that seems to prevent the hub from seating. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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#17
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#18
Another note - The bolts that came with the engine had star washers on them. Necessary?
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#19
Found this pic online and does not look like that extra "sleeve" I see on mine. Wondering if that is just from the build and needs to be ground flush so the TC hub will fit correctly.

12112


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#20
Guys - The bushing ground down with a dremel, no problem. Cleaned out the hole and test fit the TC, which nested nicely and mated right up to the flex plate. Thought I was home free. Next problem. Installed the TC into the tranny and confirmed that it is all the way seated. Mated the tranny up to the block and now the TC tab and flexplate have about a 1/8" gap. Definitely concerned about drawing the TC out of it's seat or bending the flexplate by cranking down on the screws. First time doing this, so I don't want to be wrong.
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