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Guys,
the engine (440) was rebuilt last year.
Since it idled a little rough (after rebuild),or even died when transmission was put in Drive, the shop tried to solve that by adjusting ingnition and carb. Didn't help. Since nearly everything was new except for the distributor, I decided to put in a Ready to run MSD distributor. Heard from the shop today, the engine still dies in D..
They now figure the converter (used stock one) might be the problem.
What do you Guys think?
Thanks.
Aad (the Netherlands)
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Tight converters are a pain but I would start with the basics first, Ignition timing then carb set up and vacuum
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JohnS Wrote:Tight converters are a pain but I would start with the basics first, Ignition timing then carb set up and vacuum
Today a Dutch Mopar Goeroe checked/adjusted all those basics.
I wasn't there but trust that's covered.
Could a (bad?) converter cause the engine dying?
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Funny thing is, I changed a 3500 stall converter some years ago for the stock one.
I found the high stall converter a disaster for street use.
Much revs to just get the car rolling..
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Will the car drive? A stuck converter will only cause problems when stopped.
Also try running the car in neutral to see if that makes any difference. Make sure the converter is not some type of locking one. Not sure how to tell except by part number. Does it go into gear with an unusual bang?
Next since you said it idles rough, does it run at higher RPM better? If at idle only did you try to isolate cylinders? If no specific cylinder see what else is in common. What carb? And did you try another carb just as a test?
Hope these ideas get your brain thinking in some other directions.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
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ws27 Wrote:Will the car drive? A stuck converter will only cause problems when stopped.
Also try running the car in neutral to see if that makes any difference. Make sure the converter is not some type of locking one. Not sure how to tell except by part number. Does it go into gear with an unusual bang?
Next since you said it idles rough, does it run at higher RPM better? If at idle only did you try to isolate cylinders? If no specific cylinder see what else is in common. What carb? And did you try another carb just as a test?
Hope these ideas get your brain thinking in some other directions.
The car will drive, if you can keep it running (higher revs) when shifted to "D". Not really an unusual bang, but it does bang when shifted to Reverse!
The rough idle only happens when put in "D", in neutral it idles fine.
I will tell your ideas to the guys at the shop about cilinders and carb.
It would be a waste of time to change the converter if that is not the issue..
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I would be focusing on timing and carb. Can you borrow a carb to eliminate it as a culprit? Do you AFR readings, and if not, can you get them?
Have you verified cam timing to make sure that the timing chain was properly installed?
That is where I would start. I would put a low probability on the converter but I have seen stranger things happen.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981
Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph
69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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05-15-16, 02:46 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-15-16, 02:52 PM by Stargazer.)
markz Wrote:I would be focusing on timing and carb. Can you borrow a carb to eliminate it as a culprit? Do you AFR readings, and if not, can you get them?
Have you verified cam timing to make sure that the timing chain was properly installed?
That is where I would start. I would put a low probability on the converter but I have seen stranger things happen.
Markz,
the engine was rebuild, the shop installed the camshaft with the degreeing procedure.
Timing and carb where done yesterday by a Mopar Goeroe that comes by for this stuff.
What are AFR readings?
Another carb should not be a problem since it's a Moparshop.
After your remarks I will certainly discuss your ideas with the guys at the shop.
Even though these people know much more then me about these matters, I have a feeling the converter isn't the problem..
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markz Wrote:I would be focusing on timing and carb. Can you borrow a carb to eliminate it as a culprit? Do you AFR readings, and if not, can you get them?
Have you verified cam timing to make sure that the timing chain was properly installed?
.
I agree with the above...Sounds like it is a cog out ??
Frozen Canadian Coronet Member since 2009.
The "Alberta" Andy.
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What's a "cog out", 440spd?
And AFR readings?
Sorry for my ignorance..
