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Engine Install
#1
Well it's that time, at least as far as I can tell. '67 Coronet, was a 318, about to have a '68 383 installed. The engine bay is empty except for the steering gear. The motor is bare of accessories as I figured the less stuff on it, the easier the install. I have the conversion mounts from Shumacher. Here is my question list

1. Should the mounts be on the engine or on the frame?
2. Install the mini starter now or after the engine is in place?
3. Do I need to do anything on the back end to make sure the tranny matches up later (727 auto)?
4. Any special tips? I have a standard 1T hoist and heavy duty chain that I was going to bolt to the block/heads rather than picking from the carb block off plate. I don't have the load leveler but could get that if it makes a huge difference.

Thanks again everyone.

12102


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#2
Install the mounts on the engine before install.

I install starter after engine is installed.

Not sure what you are asking about in next question.

Whenever possible, I install the transmission with the the engine. Have at least one other person helping me. You want to be able to adjust the engine angle - keep that in mind.

Either way, mark your torque converter and flex plate because the holes are not symmetrical. Normally I line them up and spray one of the flex plate ears that matches correctly to the torque converter so that I know that those 2 go together.

Make sure that if you install the engine from the top that you have enough height clearance with your hoist to clear the oil pan over the radiator brace.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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#3
Hi Mark, thanks as always. I'll take a closer look at marrying up the tranny first. Never did a reinstall, so all this is new and it was over 10 years ago since I pulled the 318, but I did separate it from the tranny first.
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#4
Most definetely mark the torque convertor. If not you could be in for hours of fun trying to line it up... DAMHIK
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
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#5
Guys - If I decide to put the motor in without the tranny (leaning that way), does the fit-up that Mark mentions have to be done ahead of this? In other words, should I put engine, torque convertor and tranny together outside of the car - mark all the locations as noted and then take it back off? This part is all new for me, so sorry if these are silly questions. Thanks guys.
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#6
Art, I only do my installs engine first, rest the oil pan on a piece of wood (2X4) and then install the trans. Because it is only me, it's much easier to do.

As for the torque convertor and flex plate, there is a simple way to do it. Take the converter out, and take the flex plate off and line it up so it bolts to the converter. Once you've done that, hit one bolt (it can be any) with some spray paint (white is preferable as lighting underneath can be sparse). Then reinstall the torque convertor, flex plate and go ahead and install the trans.
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
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#7
67440Dodge Wrote:Art, I only do my installs engine first, rest the oil pan on a piece of wood (2X4) and then install the trans. Because it is only me, it's much easier to do.

As for the torque convertor and flex plate, there is a simple way to do it. Take the converter out, and take the flex plate off and line it up so it bolts to the converter. Once you've done that, hit one bolt (it can be any) with some spray paint (white is preferable as lighting underneath can be sparse). Then reinstall the torque convertor, flex plate and go ahead and install the trans.

Totally agree. I normally pull the tranny off first when taking the engine out but normally reinstall the engine with tranny together.

I have done it both ways, and probably have done more of them separate than together. But in most recent history I have gone to reinstalling together. I just find it hard to move the tranny around under the car because I don't get the car up high enough off the ground.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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#8
Thanks guys. Went to install the new pitman arm today and got a good look at the rest of the steering rack. Can't remember when Dad or I would have replaced any of these parts, so I'm going to buy a kit and at least get the idler and links put in since this is most definitely easier with my butt sitting on the K frame then working from underneath. This gives me another week to think about engine / tranny install. I don't think the guy gave me a flex plate with the 727. Any chance the one off my 904 will fit? If not, is the correct one available somewhere?
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#9
Is this a street car? Stock?

I don't know if the 904 and 727 are the same or not. I see some listings that fit both and others that do not.

You need to be aware that a lot of the stock converters were 5/16" bolts and the high performance stuff is 7/16" You need to have a flex plate with the right holes. All the aftermarket converters I have seen have been 7/16".

I have a pile of used big block 727 flex plates if you need one and can tell me what you need. I probable have a good spare. You can buy them at Summit or any other similar store.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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#10
Also the flex plate bolts have been known to come loose. I use 7/16" ARP bolts and I torque to 50 lb-ft with red loctite. Has served me well. %/16 bolts use a much lower torque.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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