02-11-13, 12:30 AM
4264door Wrote:No way to tighten the valve stems other than replacing the valves and valve guides, usually with a bronze bushing. If you try to remove a valve from the head with the head off the block without smoothing the burrs where the valve stem locking keys sit then you run the risk of scratching the inside of the valve guide and make matters even worse. You will need a valve spring compressor for this job and a compressed air source with the appropriate spark plug fitting to charge the cylinder with air in the event the valve slips down into the cylinder with the piston in its downward-most positoin. The compressed air holds the valve up for inspection. Ask me how I know that, LOL. You have the head off and I assume will be doing the other head as well so this isn't an issue, just thought I would mention it. While the head is off, really clean the mating surfaces of both the heads AND the block/intake and inspect for any cracked cast iron or warped surfaces. Whenever I have a head off I put oiled shop rags in the cylinders to help keep the inevitable dirt residues out of the cylinders. Inspect everything with a fine-toothed comb and aboe all...have fun doing all of this!
Tim, not to belittle you, but there is a procedure to repair valve guides. I'm sure you know it, it's called reaming for others who don't. Reaming will tighten up a worn valve guide, but it's really a temporary repair because of it's nature. It creats rings with the metal of the guide to "tighten" up the guide. Problem is, you now have even less surface area of the guide touching the valve stem. Some argue that holds more oil and reduces wear, but I'm from the camp that less surface are equal more force which equals more wear.
Just thought ZAQ should be aware of it so he can make the right decision for him when someone presents this option for him.
Hope you don't mind me adding the additional info.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.