I have the motor and tranny out to fix all the leaks. I am suspect the rear main is leaking but can't be sure. I have read so many online forums to see what seal is best and how to do it blah blah blah. I am worried the seal might not be bad, or it might be slightly leaking and if I replace it could become worse! I have attached some photos for you guys to mull over and give opinions. The spray pattern on the back of the block was odd. Slinging around from the crank/flywheel? Also I did have a leak at the sending unit which did run down the back of the block last year that has since been fixed. I know the valve covers are always suspect too but don't see anything around that area that really makes me think. I am changing the valve cover gaskets again just because.
There was a VERY small drip/run coming down from the crank on the seal holder. Side seals appeared dry. Do I RTV the outside side seal areas along with the flange that meets the oil pan and pray? Or change the damn thing. Motor only been together 1.5yrs and 1,000 miles since total rebuild back to stock.
ws27 Wrote:If I was taking that apart knowing the sending unit was leaking, I wouldn't be worrying about the rear main seal. Don't go only on my opinion though.
Did you fix the sending unit before the engine was removed?
Yes as I stated. Motor is out to do tranny leaks, steering box leak, starter upgrade. Not just for the main. I just wish I KNEW if it’s really leaking. So hard to tell and if I put it back and it leaks I’ll be sick. But I also don’t wanna open a can of worms if I don’t have to!
I would take a closer look at the seal retainer. I replaced the rear main on my motor twice and still had a leak. I discovered the bolts that came with the hemi oil pan were to long and broke threw the retainer. I used the rubber seal with no silicone. I did use silicone on the pan/windage tray gasket though.
See that’s my dilemma. Hate to do it and might get worse. Pan/tray gaskets all had good imprints with no oil seepage back there too. Side seal areas looked dry too! The only thing that bugs me is there was a small run about 1/8” wide coming down from crank area. Was this a continuous run or just something that ran down due to the oil being slung from the flywheel? I’m losing sleep guys.
I still have not understood the upgrade this would be over stock, not saying it isn't but I have never had issues with stock ones.
What does it do differently?
The Idaho Andy I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
Update: Car is back together and all seems well. I had all tranny seals re-done. Changed the oil pan to correct 402 style. Changed the rear main with Viton style. Installed blue side seals and gooped it up good with "Right Stuff". Changed valve cover seals-cork with red rtv top and bottom. Front brake calipers-new rebuilds. Changed thermostat housing gasket-black rtv top and bottom. Steering gearbox rebuild-Steer and Gear stage 2. Powermaster mini starter-not clockable like I thought or at least the one I used. Had to buy bolt-on terminals to get it away from the block and help when using factory style harness. Changed header gaskets to thicker crushable style. Gotta get alignment redone and recommended max caster for better on center feel. Have carb settings checked again. New lower control arm bushings and welded on stiffening plates.
Initial opinions on steering box is a hair tighter. Not as firm as I thought. I'll see how it is after an alignment.
Sitting over the weekend she didn't wet the bed which is a good sign-Only test drove about 5 miles though. Prayers I got everything!
