Hey guys. I started working on my '67 Coronet today. The heater/A/C blower motor doesn't work. The fuses were missing so I put new fuses in. Nothing. Then I pulled the instrument panel out to access the blower motor switch. That lead to 2 things. The first thing is that there is no plug connected to the switch and I can't seem to find it back there behind the dash. Strange! The second thing is that it looks as if the amp gauge was disconnected and the black and red wires for it were connected together and wrapped heavily in electrical tape. Same thing with the light bulb socket that would normally illuminate the amp meter and the space where a clock would normally be. Any ideas on where the connector for the switch may be? Also why would the amp gauge be bypassed? If the gauge is inop, would that affect the charging system at all, thus prompting the PO to simply bypass it? Thanks much for any insight. Also looking for a wiring schematic.9022]9023]
1. Switch plug - Don't know.
2. Ammeter bypass - common downgrade by many misled Mopar owners.
3. Wiring Schematic - In the FSM at this link http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109
If you don't find what you need in the manual, I have a couple of AC dashes lying around with all the wires still on them, I'd be happy to get you some pics if you need them.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
Thanks much guys! What do you mean by common downgrade? A pic of what the wiring looks like for the heat/A/C controls when you have a minute would be awesome! Thank you!
One of the Mopar "myths" is that the amp meter is a fire hazard and it should be bypassed or converted to a volt gauge. Reality is that they only fail if you do not tighten the connections properly.
If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?
That's interesting about the amp gauge. Can it be converted to a volt gauge and still retain the factory look? I'd really like to know why it was bypassed. Maybe the gauge was known to be inop by the PO or maybe he did it just to be on the safe side. Who knows. I would think that if you snug them down appropriately, you should never have a problem with them coming loose. I can tell you that's not something I would ever pull my dash panel out to check though. Once the connections are made, you should be good to go me thinks.
The bulkhead connector is the weak link. Thats why they bypass the Amp meter to keep high amps from being pulled thru the bulkhead connector.
I bypassed mine on the engine compartment side of the bulkhead and left everything unmolseted under the dash.
Thank you for the pics! Things look good on mine from the vacuum lines on over to the right. I'm lost on the 3 wires contacts for the blower motor switch. Is your pic taken with the unit upside down?
