I was working on my 66 over the weekend and ran into an odd issue. First of all, the wiring harness I have is aftermarket throughout the entire car. I used to be an electrician so not a huge deal. The issue I am running into is as follows: The Starter Relay has a feed from the battery (Red), a Feed to the starter itself (Smaller red), and a wire from the Start position on the ignition (purple). (As well as a ground, or Neutral safety switch). A picture for you visual types (like me):
1950
The Issue: When I turn the key to the "Run" position (pink on the back of the ignition) that powers the coil through the ballast, I also have a trace amount of power running through the purple. It is not enough power to trip the relay but it is enough to hold it on. So, when I turn the key to "Start", the starter goes, the motor starts, and I let go of the key and it clicks back to "run" position. That trace power is enough to hold the relay once it has been tripped, so even though the motor is running, the starter keeps going too.
MY thoughts: Either the ignition switch is junk (I have tried two but they are both from older parts cars) OR there is an issue with the wiring harness. I know since I have an aftermarket harness it is hard for you guys to help but I thought if this is a common issue when the ignitions go bad then you guys could chime in and say so. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Here is my shot at it. I'd say your using the second blue wire from the switch to trip the starter relay or the Brown wire.
Key switch colors and where they should end up.
I know your harnes has been replaced.
Lets hope the "key" harness is still there.
Okay...
Terminal "B" = Red from amp meter
Terminal "I" = Dual dark Blue.1 to voltage regulator and other to run side ballast resistor.
Terminal "A" = Black to fuse box acc run power
Terminal "S"= Yellow to starter relay
Terminal "2"= Brown to coil side ballast resistor.
I suspect you either have the Brown wire going to the starter relay or one of the extra blue wires.
Even if using a aftermarket switch?
The switch should have
B = Battery
I = Ignition
A= Accessory
S = Start
2 = Start 2. Full 12 volts to coil during cranking only. Then drops voltage in the run position.
That could be optional on some aftermarket switches.
Hope that helps ya out!
Joe
When I got the car the stock plug on the back of the ignition was gone, BUT, I did buy a parts car and took it off that one (though the harness was shot on that car). I will have to check tonight when I get home but I think that is the way it is coming off the back of the ignition. I'm thinking it may be an issue with the harness itself (as I am having another issue with the headlights and turn signals which I will be contacting the company for help). I am considering wiring a push button next to the key so you turn the key to run and push the button for the starter. Push button starts are all the rage lately.
Before I go push button I am going to use my test light on the back of the ignition switch and test each wire to see what they're doing back there. I don't know why I didn't think of this Sunday when I was working on it... I guess I had to type out the issue to think of it.
You should download a schematic for your car. Terminal "B" on the switch feeds the flasher, and turn signal circuit. Headlights get straight power from the bat lug on relay feeding the cars cabin.
as stated- in " Run " ----- acc, ign1 is powered
" start "----- ing2, and start is powered. ( there would be some power vis ballast resistor will show on ing1- but it goes now where.)
if you have power on the start wire in" run "- there is a mixup or the ing. switch is suppling power when it shouldn't be.
After you guys mentioned that I recall there being another prong on the back of the ignition switch so I think that may be the solution. Thanks guys!
As for the headlights issue, The headlights work, the turn signals work, the parking lights work, but when you turn the headlights on, the left turn signal won't work (but the right will). That one is a true mystery.
