Posts: 625
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Joined: Jun 2013
Been there done that!
Check out this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMZEoTtf8mM
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981
Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph
69 GTX clone - build in progress........
Posts: 932
Threads: 151
Joined: Jul 2000
that was worth the watch, thank you
Posts: 529
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Joined: Sep 2014
I now know more than I'll EVER need to about the 67 collapsible column! Thanks!
Posts: 625
Threads: 40
Joined: Jun 2013
I was too tired to type last night.
Personally I would put the column back in the car (not fully assembled), get the column where it needs to be and then pull the shaft out till it meets the hole to coupler dimension and then mark the shaft where you know it needs to be in respect to the column. Or you can just measure the difference and fix it when you assemble the column.
On Moparts there was discussion that a shaft pulled out of the coupler on a drag car with the broken pins, but I got to believe there was something else wrong. On the ones I worked on, there was a spring clip on the shaft that prevents the shaft from moving. It was doing a pretty good job. I think it is enough to prevent shaft movement. And isn't there a collar near the bearing with a set screw to prevent the shaft from coming out of the coupler?
A tad bit of loctite probably would not hurt, but I would not go crazy. I would not be using any mechanical pins. As you hopefully now know, the plastic pins are really not pins but were an injection hole for the plastic.
Kevin - If you need some custom pulling tools let me know.
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981
Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph
69 GTX clone - build in progress........
Posts: 6,659
Threads: 469
Joined: Jan 2013
markz Wrote:I was too tired to type last night.
Personally I would put the column back in the car (not fully assembled), get the column where it needs to be and then pull the shaft out till it meets the hole to coupler dimension and then mark the shaft where you know it needs to be in respect to the column. Or you can just measure the difference and fix it when you assemble the column.
On Moparts there was discussion that a shaft pulled out of the coupler on a drag car with the broken pins, but I got to believe there was something else wrong. On the ones I worked on, there was a spring clip on the shaft that prevents the shaft from moving. It was doing a pretty good job. I think it is enough to prevent shaft movement. And isn't there a collar near the bearing with a set screw to prevent the shaft from coming out of the coupler?
A tad bit of loctite probably would not hurt, but I would not go crazy. I would not be using any mechanical pins. As you hopefully now know, the plastic pins are really not pins but were an injection hole for the plastic.
Kevin - If you need some custom pulling tools let me know.
That's what I was trying to say earlier but I can understand your explanation way better than mine . haha
The Idaho Andy
I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
Posts: 529
Threads: 79
Joined: Sep 2014
Well thanks a lot for posting this and that video. Turns out our column was collapsed due to possibly me tapping the shaft at the steering wheel in an effort to drive the coupler onto the steering gear shaft! I thought I was toast! Watching the video and the NO HAMMER references had me on edge. Sure enough today when I installed the firewall plate on the column and attempted to reinstall I could not get the coupler to slide on far enough to install the roll pin. Removed and was able to clamp the shaft and tap it back out. Luckily I got it close and was able to achieve the 13/16" spacing as stated in the manual. I know that this prob isn't supposed to be moved back and forth but it was still tight so I'm not really worried the shaft will slide while driving. Relief!!!!
Posts: 932
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Joined: Jul 2000
67RTBlue Wrote:Well thanks a lot for posting this and that video. Turns out our column was collapsed due to possibly me tapping the shaft at the steering wheel in an effort to drive the coupler onto the steering gear shaft! I thought I was toast! Watching the video and the NO HAMMER references had me on edge. Sure enough today when I installed the firewall plate on the column and attempted to reinstall I could not get the coupler to slide on far enough to install the roll pin. Removed and was able to clamp the shaft and tap it back out. Luckily I got it close and was able to achieve the 13/16" spacing as stated in the manual. I know that this prob isn't supposed to be moved back and forth but it was still tight so I'm not really worried the shaft will slide while driving. Relief!!!!
Sounds like I had good timing posting this......
Good info here...I'll be at maple groove tommorrow if I see an undamaged one I may buy it...otherwise I'm taking Mark's advice
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I had the same issue with mine. A body shop guy told me to use a hot glue gun to make a new pin.
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Joined: Jun 2013
Mark's 69 Wrote:I had the same issue with mine. A body shop guy told me to use a hot glue gun to make a new pin.
I think that is a great idea!
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981
Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph
69 GTX clone - build in progress........
Posts: 6,659
Threads: 469
Joined: Jan 2013
So wait do I need a hammer or not?
The Idaho Andy
I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
