ws27 Wrote:Sounds like your daughter really knows how to drive Mark.
She better! I didn't send her to BMW driving school for nothing!
Got her beast in the 13.80's - 4000 lb with AC.
To answer the other question about the biasing (proportional) valve, it is a manual valve that is added to the rear brake lines. I put mine under the driver seat.
ok sorta adding to this post....my breaks don't feel that great, almost like ive had drum brakes in the past stop better than this...
what do I need to do to upgrade or solve this issue? all I have on firewall is the master cylinder bolted to firewall....
should I have a power booster? or? help....not used to having disc brakes on a old car lol....
all pads seem good.
only thing I haven't checked is adjustment on rear drums...
You have manual disc brakes, so I would recommend finding out what material pad you have. Organic or semi=metalic, an organic pad would work best in your case.
And is the master single pot or dual? Maybe you have the wrong master for disc. Pic would help
here is pic of my brake set up.....
don't hate on the condition under my hood, im embarrassed by it....
this winter engine will come out and all be pretty then.
keep in mind I don't think mine are factory because they are single piston disc brakes...
after sitting for about a week now they hardly have any pressure and the peddle went to the floor almost when I went to move it out of garage.....not good...
could be rusted line, wheel cylinder, etc..
and another question is If I were to buy brake pads for these front disc brakes how in the world would I know what pads to buy or ask for at the auto parts store? lol.....geeesh.
What you have is a drum brake master without power. It should stop the car just fine, but is not correct and will cause a little drag on the discs when you first take your foot off the brake. There is a residual check valve for drum brakes that is not in disc master cylinders. What you need is to go completely though the entire system and identify what's causing trouble. I bet you have something stuck or leaking on the hydraulic side. Organic is also important like Andy said, but you just bought this car and don't know it's history. I have never had a car I didn't completely rebuild the brakes on before driving. So in the process, you will need to replace that master as well, might as well make that right while you are at it.
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