fresh start

[markz]

The distributor gear will rotate out. Put a flat screwdriver in it and turn it it will come up then you should be able to get it out the rest of the way with needle nose.

I have never had that method fail on a big block and it was NOT gonna come out that way on the last small block I worked on. Had to bump the crank.

I generally agree with Mike's recommendations on break-n procedure but have some additional comments.

First, the reason the for minimum 2000 rpms during break-in is to splash oil everywhere on the cam and lifters. Varying the rpms causes the oil to go to different places and the 2000 rpms provides minimum required oil volume.

My procedure is as follows:

Coat lifters and cam very well with moly break-in lube. Prime the engine very well (I rotate the engine at least 1 complete revolution while priming). Start the car and keep minimum 2000 rpms. Vary the rpms every few seconds between 2000 and 2500 rpms. In reality tends to be a touch under 2000 rpm to a little over 2500 rpm. Always trying to keep the rpm at a different rpm than the time before - again, you want variation in rpm. Do this for 25 minutes - make sure car has plenty of gas.

If you have heavy springs (or double springs) should put in a set of weak break-in springs or remove inner springs.

With that said, the issues with the poorer oil and cam/lifter metallurgy nowadays is very real. I ended up losing 2 flat tappet cams last year in a 440 and a 383. In all my 35+ years of playing with cars only lost 2 cams. Both were GM (Olds V6 that was a known cam eater) and a 454 that had a valve that would hang up because of a bad guide. I am putting in 2 flat tappet cams in now, and an terrified of killing them. I will be following the above procedure but I will be using Driven Oil (used to be Joe Gibbs Racing Oil). I will be calling them for their recommendations and will use the break-in oil and regular oil that they recommend.

Good Luck!

[R/T XTC]

thanks for your advice guys I have brad pen" green break in oil" 30w in there which is a high zinc blend for the cam . Heads are new Edelbrock units so we should be OK with valve springs I hope. I have to get the distributor gear indexed properly and put the distributor back in do some final wiring for the coil I'll check gas level and try to start it up

[markz]

thanks for your advice guys I have brad pen" green break in oil" 30w in there which is a high zinc blend for the cam . Heads are new Edelbrock units so we should be OK with valve springs I hope. I have to get the distributor gear indexed properly and put the distributor back in do some final wiring for the coil I'll check gas level and try to start it up

Just to be clear - you want weak springs during break-in. You might call comp cams to ask if they recommend using a different spring for break-in than the ones you have.

[Racer Brown]

I had 3-24 qt cases of Kendall GT-1 racing oil, well this year I finally used the last of it and started using Brad Penn, I found out, it's the same formula as the "old" GT-1!

[R/T XTC]

Thanks go out to all you members who answered this post . After I indexed the distributor gear and installed the MSD distributor and plug wires, we added a little fuel, and the engine sprang to life. WE ran it for 20 min or so up and down as instructed and she ran SWEET !! We still have a lot of detail work to button up but we crossed a big hurdle today. Thanks to all the members who helped out. you made my job a lot easier.

[67r/t4speeder]

Change the oil again soon and put a magnetic drain plug in there

[R/T XTC]

there is a magnetic plug on the Milodon deep oil pan. the engine builder said go 200 miles what would you say?

[67440Dodge]

Do what the engine builder says. That way if there's any issue and you changed the oil early, it may give him an out.

When you do change it again, throw another thing of cam break in lube in. Some cam mfr's recommend using it for 1,000 miles..

[R/T XTC]

he was on vacation until tomorrow . When he is back I"ll be sure to check that out. UPDATE ... talked to him today and he said the valve springs on edelbrock heads are ok. go out and put 200 mi on it. Today I ran it about 150 miles and it ran sweet... 204 F on temp, 70 psi oil, 2500 RPM at speed on freeway and it was a blast. I'll put so more miles on it this weekend and drop it off by the builder on Monday for an oil change and to check the valve lash. This car has a new attitude for sure !