I am ready to start my small block engine and need to ask a few questions before I do. my engine builder made it clear that I should prime the oil pump before I try and start this engine. I pulled out the distributer but can't seem to get the gear out of the way to access the pump drive. does anyone have advise on the best way to do this. I tried with a long needle nose pliers but don't want to nick up the gear.Once the engine fires off what is the recommended break in procedure from your experience? any help would be greatly appreciated
LOL! Yes - learned that that hard way! Trick is to bump the engine over. Bump it a little (probably turn with wrench if possible) then try to pull it out with the pliers. Can't remember if I bumped it with a starter or by hand, but about a half revolution and it was out. Spent an hour before that trying unsuccessfully to get it out.
Break-in is a bit dependent on what was done to the motor. Full rebuild I assume? What kind of cam - flat tappet or roller? Is it new?
new comp cams flat tappet full rebuild on block that makes sense since the cam drive is angle cut thanks for your advise i'll try that tomorrow
You can try sticking the needle nose pliers inside the groove the distributor sits in and pulling the handles outward and twisting the handles. That will apply pressure to the inside of the hole while also pressing against the groove sides and it should rotate out.
For break in, I first follow the cam makers recommendations... if don't have them, then as soon as motor starts, make sure got oil pressure and bring it up to 2,000 RPM. I then increase the speed in 1,000 RPM increments every few minutes til it gets to 2500 RPM. Then every few minutes I vary the RPM's down and up (2500-2300, then 2300-2400, then 2400-2200 etc) for about 20 minutes or so. After 20 minutes start dropping the RPM's down to idle. Then I shut it down, let it cool and change oil and filter. (I cut the filter open to see how much metal is inside).
Some things I do before the breakin:
Pressure test the cooling system. Much easier to find and fix a leaky hose or fitting before the break in starts.
Few minutes before I fire the engine, I pour the cam break in lube down the valve covers. After a few minutes it will have drained on to the cam lobes and be there when the motor fires.
The distributor gear will rotate out. Put a flat screwdriver in it and turn it it will come up then you should be able to get it out the rest of the way with needle nose. Be sure to remember which way the slot is facing before turning/removing it so you can put it back in the same position or you will have a hard time getting the motor to start/setting the timing. The gear is made of steel and is pretty hard it would take quite a bit to damage it.
thanks to all you friends for your imput. today I will put that advice to work and try to get this engine started .I'll post again tonight when I get back home.
I have had to use one of those larger telescope super magnets and rock crank back and forth to get one out that was being tough, most the time long needle nose works and hold your
just right.
All Mopar V8's. With the engine at tdc#1, install the drive gear so the slot is parallel to the camshaft. This is the factory position.
I got the gear out by having a friend work the crank bolt back and forth while I worked the needle nose on the gear and It came out. Then I started priming the pump only to find out I was pumping oil all over the floor @#$% After checking the oil filter and priming again it still leaked, pulled off the filter and plate and put in a thicker gasket and we held pressure with no leaks. I did a pressure test on the cooling system and all was good there. tomorrow I 'll double check TDC on compression at # 1 and firing order on cap, slip the gear back in drop in the distributor and try to start it unless I missed something else. oh yeah top off the oil @#$%
Sedanman67 Wrote:All Mopar V8's. With the engine at tdc#1, install the drive gear so the slot is parallel to the camshaft. This is the factory position.
MY diagram shows it pointing at the #1 intake bolt on the drivers side by the thermostat ? this would be slightly off center to start but most likely end up parallel after dropping down all the way