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Hello All,
I have been tooling around town with my 69 Coronet 2 door hardtop.....freshly rebuilt differential and new axle bearings and seals....
I noticed that the car didn't seem to coast to a stop at intersections....instead, it appeared to slow down without braking....it appeared a brake was dragging....
I jacked car up, and neither front wheel would rotate....I bled the passenger side wheel cylinder and both now turn freely....
I have a rebuilt master cylinder, all new lines (SS and rubber), and all new wheel cylinders.....
when rebuilding the system, I had to extend the booster plunger in order to get fluid to the rear of the car....and I have driven it before and didn't notice this happening....
any thoughts on the cause?
thanks,
Mark
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brakes not adjusted properly or self adjusters not set up/working properly.
Clean as a whistle
Smelling like a rose
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Make sure you still have slight play in pedal so brakes aren't dragging when not applied.
If you open front bleeder and it released brake then back track from there.
The Idaho Andy
I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
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X2 the problem is in the hydraulics because you made the problem go away by letting out some pressure.
I agree with going after the booster push rod first. You can fix that easily with out removing or bleeding. Use something like a small screw driver to compare the push rod length to the recessed hole in the piston.
Also remember, new doesn't mean good...
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
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I had the same problem when the front tires would lock up when the car warmed up. It was because I had a original drum master cylinder temporarily until I got the disk/drum master cylinder after I converted the front brakes to disk.
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Hey all,
I shortened the plunger on the brake booster.....I checked brakes....all good....
I drove the car over 100 miles yesterday and this morning.....no issues....I thought I had this licked....
when my son took it out this afternoon, the brakes were again locked.....
any thoughts now?
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I don't know how you can make the brakes get locked again, but wait for it to happen, then loosen the line at the master cylinder to see if you still have residual pressure. You need to know what is holding the pressure in.
It could still be more adjustment on the booster, it also could be a stuck master cylinder, or collapsed hose.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
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10-27-13, 11:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-27-13, 11:20 PM by markbob@ameritech.net.)
Hey all,
thanks for the replies...
would a collapsed hose have any outward signs that it's collapsed?
if it's the plunger length, how come it takes so long for this condition to develop?
also, what is the purpose of the vacuum hose on the booster? could this be an issue?
thanks,
Mark
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Ditto on the collapsed hose, externally it will look O .K. over time inside material can turn to mush and cause brake to hold although it seems odd for both to lock, are you sure they both are hot?
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Hey all
i drove the car 40 miles or so and everything worked fine until I went
to pull the car in the parking space at a restaraunt
the car would barely move and all 4 wheels drums were hot
I am thinking I need to shorten the booster rod a bit as
once the fluid heats up there is no wY for it to get back to the master
any other thoughts?
