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Disc brake question for my 67
#11
markz Wrote:In general I think their parts are pretty good. Its their customer service. I bought new axles and needed new hold down plates. Told them exactly what I had including offset. Said what I had would not work. Bought the new ones and they would not work but the originals did.

They gave me a RMA and then proceeded to tack on a large restocking fee - that was never discussed when they gave me a RMA.

I disputed the charge with my credit card company. Wildwood came back with a pure attack on me saying I was totally incompetent, had no idea what I was doing, and had no right to be using their products. Not only did I win the dispute, but I also got my shipping costs back which I originally did not ask for.

Wow that sucks
The Idaho Andy
OL Blue is scared of Max
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#12
I added an adjustable valve and the mechanic took it off-said I didn't need it. I may have bought a disc brake prop valve when I ordered everything new and don't recall. The car stops fine around town. I've done a couple test panic stops and didn't get any sensation the rear was gonna lock up.
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#13
67RTBlue Wrote:I added an adjustable valve and the mechanic took it off-said I didn't need it. I may have bought a disc brake prop valve when I ordered everything new and don't recall. The car stops fine around town. I've done a couple test panic stops and didn't get any sensation the rear was gonna lock up.

Read my post - I thought I was good - I had the correct proportioning valve for a 73 A body.

I went to a parking lot and stood out side the car and watched it and my daughter took it to about 5 mph and then slammed on the brakes. It was very clear that the rear brakes were locking up first and too early. Added the valve and after a few adjustments all was good.

Everyone - don't assume all is good! Test it properly!
67 Coronet 500 - 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
Owned Since 1981

Daughter's Car
67 Coronet 500 Street Car with AC
13.300 @ 101.75 mph

69 GTX clone - build in progress........
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#14
markz Wrote:Read my post - I thought I was good - I had the correct proportioning valve for a 73 A body.

I went to a parking lot and stood out side the car and watched it and my daughter took it to about 5 mph and then slammed on the brakes. It was very clear that the rear brakes were locking up first and too early. Added the valve and after a few adjustments all was good.

Everyone - don't assume all is good! Test it properly!

Totally agree and I'm not saying my setup is THE way. Even on trusted advise always test. No two cars are alike. They have personalities ya know! Good luck on the setup!
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#15
Ok everything is ordered and will be here tomorrow, yay! I went with the fancy Wilwood valve.

Question is there a distribution block I could buy that wont act as a valve..meaning I'd like to keep all the brake lines so have a junction so to speak, in the same place the stock proportion valve is... so I could just run lines to that instead of making an entire new set to each wheel form the Wildwood unit.
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#16
just use the stock valve that is there now. on a drum brake car it just acts as a pass thru block
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
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#17
Oh I didnt know that, thanks Dude!
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#18
The front end is pretty shot its one of those projects where WAY more is going to be replace then I thought.

The tires are small compared what I had on there...I put caltracs on the back with a adjustable shock (set it to 50/50)

Should i do a 70 30 up front you guys think?


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#19
Some progress, nothing too exciting but Wow was the ball joints trashed, the top was frozen solid and the bottom looks like a dogs chew toy

[Image: attachment.php?attachmentid=11782&d=1554737482]


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#20
O my
The Idaho Andy
OL Blue is scared of Max
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