Lets put it this way... in 1966 if your convertible went to the dealer because the power steering pump went bad, do you think it sat there waiting for a date coded pump with the correct color palette cap to arrive from the warehouse? Nope, it got whatever the dealer could put on there to get it out the door, and that included going down the street to Jim-Dandy Auto Parts and getting it there.
The only time it makes a difference is if someone is selling a "100% period correct" restoration and demands a higher price than is the norm for that car. Then it better be correct voltage regulator, ballast resistor, etc etc
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
The way I decide on my car is by my own standards. I like to be as close to stock looking as possible. But performance, part availability, and money do help decide for me as well. My cars have electronic ignition (and the only start retard is at the key!) but even with that mod, I try to hide it as much as possible. I've had Bill Evens make up harnesses for them with the electronic conversion wired right in so it looks stock. I then also request a 5 ft pigtal for the box so I can hide it under the battery. So you have to look really close to notice the two wire dist.
On your question, clear aftermarket parts aren't right if you are trying to go for the original look. However you can sometimes find rebuilt factory parts from aftermarket suppliers. It is hit or miss. And then what is original look? In my book, which is my opinion (remember, mine not others and not necessarily correct either) it's how it looked leaving the factory. Date code or not you can still have correct parts with the wrong date on them. And does it really matter? It's your car you are building for yourself, so if someone criticizes, just ask them for a few hundred thousand so you can correct the car to make them happy.
If I ever can get to it, my silver RT is going to be hard to classify as stock or modified. It's going to have a 496 stroker with a Tremic 5 spd, factory looking AC (with the boat anchor), and almost every option available at the time. Course, the car could never have been built as a standard trans with AC, and who has to know about the bigger internals and the Tremec. If I ever can get the thing done, it will cause quite a few conversations.
I should donate a picture of one of my GTXs here for everyone else to have fun with.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
67440Dodge Wrote:Lets put it this way... in 1966 if your convertible went to the dealer because the power steering pump went bad, do you think it sat there waiting for a date coded pump with the correct color palette cap to arrive from thB-)e warehouse? Nope, it got whatever the dealer could put on there to get it out the door, and that included going down the street to Jim-Dandy Auto Parts and getting it there.
The only time it makes a difference is if someone is selling a "100% period correct" restoration and demands a higher price than is the norm for that car. Then it better be correct voltage regulator, ballast resistor, etc etc
Installed the wiper motor, removed the start & horn relays, cleaned & detailed the engine wire harness cleaned up parts of the firewall. Interesting note - the start & horn relays are the originals installed in Sept 1965 - 48 years old and they still work, just ugly.
Those manifolds are correct for 67, I believe they are the originals. Andy the plug wires on the left side are supposed to go under the manifold even though the valve cover has a clip for one.
There are things wrong, maybe you guys need a better picture?
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
