Headers and mini Starters

[thebankerstoy]

Do any of the small blocks have any manifolds, similar to this style big block manifolds?

Absolutely, Chrysler also used a similar style HP cast iron manifold design on the HP 340 small block engines and those will work on most all of the LA (pre newer style Magnum) small block engines. Below are links to just one of many companies that sell both the original factory small block 1968-1970 340 HP cast iron exhaust manifolds as well as the new reproduction cast iron HP manifolds. I run similar manifolds on the 318 LA small block engine in my son's 1972 Dart Swinger that is also equipped with factory power steering, factory power front disc brakes and factory air conditioning.

Richard

Brewer's Performance 10510 State Route 571
Laura, OH 45337

Phone: (937) 947-4416 or (937) 698-4259
Fax: (937) 947-4419
Business hours: Monday-Friday 9AM-5PM

Brewer's Performance web link for new reproduction 1968-1970 340 HP exhaust manifolds sold without the heat riser on the passenger side manifold.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/prodde...od=EXH340R



Brewer's Performance web link for restored original used 1968-1970 340 HP exhaust manifolds shown with a heat riser on passenger side manifold.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/prodde...EXH68SB-PR

[ws27]

Hmmmm those would look nice on Jims' wagon...


Did I ever tell you how much fun it is to spend some one elses' money?

[tgranthamfd]

Dang, the ones found on E-Bay are higher than the reproduction ones!

[thebankerstoy]

Dang, the ones found on E-Bay are higher than the reproduction ones!

For some folks who are building serious show cars, only high quality n.o.s. or restored o.e.m. parts will do, but for those of us who actually drive our cars, reproduction parts are excellent options. As with the big block HP cast iron exhaust manifolds, it's very important to do a lot of price comparisons on the small block HP manifolds before you make your purchase. These manifolds are fairly heavy, so verify your shipping costs with the seller as well. This is especially true on Ebay, as some sellers will sell their parts at good prices but then hit you with higher shipping and handling fees to make their money, so verify everything for the transaction to help avoid any surprises. .

Richard

[skeehorse]

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp...s-headers/

This is a interesting article

[elevatorman]

Thank's for the input Richard; I have the original manifolds that came with the car when I purchased it; Not ready to turn it into a trailer Queen just yet; You bet I'll use them when I do; Thanks Ron Richard are you running a cross over and mufflers on your exhaust ?

[thebankerstoy]

Hello Ron,

Along with the set of 1969 HP exhaust manifolds, I'm running 3" pipe from the manifolds back to the HP mufflers without a crossover pipe and then more 3" pipe from the outlet side of the mufflers back to turn downs that dump just in front of the rear differential. If I were to do my system again, I would add the crossover pipe and consider running the 3" pipe from the outlet side of the mufflers all the way back to the rear bumper, as by design, my Coronet has a lower than stock ride height, so the turn downs act sort of like a 440 powered leaf blower!

Richard

[elevatorman]

we all need one of them; Funny you mention that as sitting in my easy chair watching 10-12 foot wave's with 40 MPH wind's coming in off the Lake this morning

[elevatorman]

By the way I removed my header and welded the hole shut for now til I decide what header's I'm gonna go with; I'm leaning toward's TTI header's and exhaust system; also fixed my Speedo so it zero's out; The 4-speed over drive is great I'm liking it; Plenty of low end torque and 2400 RPM in 4th gear at 75 MPH on the hyway; I am curious as what kind of 1/4 mile run's it'll make; With the auto in it ran 11.90-12.15's consistantly; but i'm glad I changed it back to it's original factory configuration; Now I need another B-Body auto car for all part's i have.

[thebankerstoy]

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp...s-headers/

This is a interesting article

Hello Jim,

Comparing factory HP exhaust manifolds to full tube headers is like comparing apples to oranges, you just can't make that comparison. The two are engineered to achieve different objectives.

As I mentioned in one of my previous posts in this thread, if you're building a car to compete on the drag strip on a regular basis in the non street legal classes, then run a good set of headers, but for those folks who will be driving their cars on the street most of the time with only a few outings to the drag strip during the year, the HP manifolds are the way to go. If someone builds an engine for mostly street use with a parts package that is designed for that type of use, like many of our owners have done with their cars here on the DCR, then the HP manifolds will serve them very well without any of the issues that headers will give them. Some brands of headers pose less issues than others, but all headers no matter which brand they may be will cause some grief in one way or another because of the way they have to be designed.

My Coronet with the 440 that I built for it back in 1991 (that is still in place to this day) which is a fairly mild set-up, runs the HP exhaust manifolds along with 3" pipe and HP mufflers (completely street legal). This car was seriously drag raced in the N.H.R.A. street legal class from 1991 through 1997 and did very well and has run some high 12 second quarter mile passes in California's cooler weather while running consistent low 13 second quarter mile passes in the hot weather here in Arizona. Other than having the exhaust manifold mating surfaces checked to make sure that they were flat, along with having the cylinder heads and exhaust manifold ports machined for identical port sizes at the mating surfaces, nothing else was done to the HP manifolds other than a good cleaning. I truly believe that even quicker E.T.'s are possible with these HP manifolds if so desired.

The pro's of running HP exhaust manifolds?

(01) They were designed to fit our cars without having to make any modification to the car, no matter if the car is an automatic or a 4 speed equipped car and they also work with any other options that any given car may have including power steering, power brakes (disc, or drum), air conditioning and anything else you might have. There may need to be a minor modification to the exhaust system depending on the model year, because there is a slight difference in the angle on the manifolds where they meet up to the exhaust piping between the 1968 and 1969 manifolds from what I understand.

(02) You will not have any of the problems you will have with full length tube headers, which include but are not limited to the following.

(A) Poorly designed header flanges that warp which causes exhaust leaks
(B) Header bolts that will back out and become loose which will lead to exhaust leaks
© Difficult spark plug access
(D) Burnt spark plug wires and boots
(E) Thin wall header tubing that will rust out
(F) Added heat in the engine compartment

Will the HP manifolds be competitive with full length tube headers on a Dyno test? No, but how many of us Dyno test our street engines? Are you REALLY going to notice the horsepower decrease you will get with the HP manifolds while driving your car on the street? We want our street engines to be as trouble free as is possible with 50 year old technology while running well and sounding good and trust me, the factory HP manifolds will give you extremely easy installation with no modifications to the car, will give you years of trouble free operation and will sound fantastic depending on the rest of the exhaust system parts you use.

In closing Jim, I will say that the short tube headers shown in the article you posted do look much more promising, as it looks as if many of the problems associated with the full length tube headers are being addresses. I'd like to hear from some folks who are using those to get their feedback.

Richard