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Some of hte latest car porn shots. Filed the plasma moly rings. Rolling assembly will be done this Saturday.
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Thanks for the pictures. Looks good!

Low end rolling assembly is done. Transgo Reprogram kit installed in the 727 trans. We also added clutches and steels, so the trans should be able to handle something like 50% more torque than before. Band are steel/carbon fiber now too.

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Looks good! I personally would have used studs on the main caps and for the head bolts. Its a cheap upgrade to better clamping.

We thought about it. But ARP are reliable too. If we were expecting 500 HP or more we were going to move to studs. But we won't be in that range for this motor. Maybe for my next one, the 440

Here are my heads, just before Bruce Toth send them out. The flow numbers look great. One thing to note. I posted some preliminary flow numbers earlier on another forum. Some person jumped on them immediately saying that his 440 Source flowed way more out of the box. Now I realize that comparing 440 Sourse to these Don Garlit Streetfighter heads is not a fair comparison, since mine are US made and 440 Source are Chinese. But I still wondered about the CM rates this person quoted on his source heads. Which I think was 330 @ .600, or something like that.

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Bruce has been porting heads for Mopars forever. Here is a story on him:

http://performance-mopar.com/index.php/4-bruce-toth

He told me that pure flow numbers do not tell the story. I asked him what he meant by that, and he said how FAST heads flow is really more important than the pure flow volume. Of course this makes sense, once he mentioned it. Of course he is right, if a head flows well 'eventually' that is one thing, but if a head flows Quickly and at high volume that is better. you fill the chamber with more air/fuel faster, which is obviously the objective.

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TekHousE Wrote:We thought about it. But ARP are reliable too.

ARP is a great product but its not about fastener quality it is about the technology. You just can't duplicate the clamping quality with a bolt like you can with a stud. The problem with a bolt is the additional friction of the threads but more importantly the twisting of the shank during torquing. Very difficult to get true torque values with that twisting going on and the additional thread friction is a significant variable.

Just a reminder to everyone, it is extremely important to lubricate under the head of the bolt/nut as that friction can have a significant difference on clamping force.

One time we kept breaking bolts (blind holes) off the journals on dryer cans on a paper machine. Major damage and cost every time it happened. Bottom line we could never get them right using a torque wrench. We ended up solving the problem using an ultrasonic method to torque the bolts. When we compared the torques using the torque wrench versus the ultrasonic method, the torque wrench values were all over the place. I can guarantee that the torque wrench method was done as best as possible. The ultrasonic method solved the problem long-term. Have not broken bolts since.

markz Wrote:ARP is a great product but its not about fastener quality it is about the technology. You just can't duplicate the clamping quality with a bolt like you can with a stud. The problem with a bolt is the additional friction of the threads but more importantly the twisting of the shank during torquing. Very difficult to get true torque values with that twisting going on and the additional thread friction is a significant variable.

Just a reminder to everyone, it is extremely important to lubricate under the head of the bolt/nut as that friction can have a significant difference on clamping force.

One time we kept breaking bolts (blind holes) off the journals on dryer cans on a paper machine. Major damage and cost every time it happened. Bottom line we could never get them right using a torque wrench. We ended up solving the problem using an ultrasonic method to torque the bolts. When we compared the torques using the torque wrench versus the ultrasonic method, the torque wrench values were all over the place. I can guarantee that the torque wrench method was done as best as possible. The ultrasonic method solved the problem long-term. Have not broken bolts since.

I agree that shanks can twist or try and rotate when torquing. I am not sure what you mean by additional friction of the threads? Unless you mean that the passage of the threads into the torqued position causes or leads to rotation of the rod?

Do you know how to stop torsional twisting when torquing? It is very easy to stop that happening when using bolts. Think about it, there is a simple technique you can use.

I know my rods are 100% straight whilst we torqued. They were not able to move at all whilst we did it. Of course this build is not aiming for +500 or 600 HP, so in reality such tolerances are of negligible value. And I do believe that in very high performance applications attention to all that you are saying is critical.

There is friction in the bolt threads between the male and female threads as well as under the the head of the bolt/nut. When torquing, you have to overcome these friction loads (which are substantial) before the bolt starts stretching (creating clamping force). That is why the lubrication used can cause a substantial difference in values to torque the fastener to.

The bolts have much more threads than a studd/nut so they have more friction. In addition, the bolt shank has torsional twist when you start torquing (needs to overcome the friction in the treads) and a stud does not.

I like overkill when it comes to reliability. My high 13 second street car has main and head studs.

We used the ARP graphite lubricant that is designed to combat friction.

Well a long overdue update.

My 727 is rebuilt, increased the clutches and steels, and rebuilt using the TransGo upgrade kit. Rebuilt my 489 case 8 3/4, went to 2.76:1 gearing and added an Eaton Tru Trac LSD. My heads arrived, they are beautiful! Port work that Bruce Toth did for me is amazing. And the heads themselves are very tough looking castings (US cast of course). Whiplash roller cam (cam is 3 bolt) and rocker gear arrived with the new double roller timing set (9 key way), thanks go to Hughes Engines for helping me out with those.

So, engine is built up to all rolling gear installed, heads were test fit as you can see below, checked valve clearances and measured for pushrods. I have the pushrods and the Mopar Performance rocker shaft hold down kit coming med next week. SO theoretically, engine might be in on Saturday next week. Giving us a week for tuning and testing before the first major car show of the year. We are cutting it fine..

I did go with the Mopar Performance fuel pump, and we installed a brand new high volume oil pump too.

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