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The brake pedal in my 66 was stuck all the way to the floor so I knew it needed some work... well I found the last Manifold stud was busted off so I had to take the brake booster out of the way so I could get the drill in there so I figured "what the heck, might as well take it apart now" and the booster was totally fried. I could tell once I got the resevoir off it that the rubber inside the booster was cracked and pretty much gone. Taking it apart was a pain in the a$$ because the bolt that holds the clamp on the booster was towards the finder and I couldnt get a wrench on it so I cut the clamp at the top and now there is basically no putting it back on (which is fine, I'd rather replace anyway).
My question is, Should I bother replacing the whole booster and resevoir assembly (like $250) or should I just put manual brakes back in it? I was monkeying around under the dash but couldn't get a good look, is that booster assembly what the brake pedal bolts into? If so, putting manual brakes on it might be a pain? Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts.
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If mine I would buy a new diaphram and fix the booster, if the metal is not rusted and buy a new master cylinder or kit that too.. That $250 for a booster and master sounds cheap I bet its rebuilt or universal.
You need to take the whole thing off though, it is a tricky to get to the bolts sometimes under dash but a long extension and swivel socket will really help out there. Dive in
Yes, the rod from the booster is bolted to the pedal, you dont take the whole pedal assembly out though just the pushrod rod bolt.
The Idaho Andy
I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a2...el/coronet
That is the link to the whole unit... but I will definitely take a look at rebuilding it. Thanks for the advice!
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Carefull which one you get if you do
Notes: Will not work on models with factory equipped power brakes. Down at the bottom of page
The Idaho Andy
I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
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Howd it go with the drilling?
The Idaho Andy
I love the smell of race fuel in the morning
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The front stud (the one I broke the EZ Out off in) I drilled away with the carbide dremel bit and finally a whack with the hammer and punch got the ez out out and the rest of the drilling was a breeze. Ended up using a HeliCoil to fix it because the threads were too munged up from all the messing around I had to do.
I started on the back one and was using a small bit and was making good progress. Had the drill going nice and slow, was getting good chips off the bit, applying cutting oil and then BAM, that f$^@(!*# drill bit broke off... time to start it all over again.
My arms were too tired from monkeying around with the first one to keep going on the other one so I gave up right when the bit broke. I'll tackle that one this week.
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67r/t4speeder Wrote:Carefull which one you get if you do
Notes: Will not work on models with factory equipped power brakes. Down at the bottom of page
Good eyes... turns out RockAuto has remanufactured ones WITH master cylinder for $86... I think I'll just go that route.
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Zaq Wrote:Good eyes... turns out RockAuto has remanufactured ones WITH master cylinder for $86... I think I'll just go that route.
link?
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SmartPatrol Wrote:link?
Sure, but don't buy it because there is only one left and I plan to buy it in a few weeks.
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...538&p=rock
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Zaq Wrote:Sure, but don't buy it because there is only one left and I plan to buy it in a few weeks.
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...538&p=rock
Haha. thanks. I think I need the dual master anyway. But the booster looks nice.
