I've assembled a few engines in my dau but that's above my pay grade! Looks good. The only tip I can offer, if you don't already know it, is the paint. If you're using the high temp paint, make sure you cure it. I used a propane torch and a temp gun to keep my headers at 200 degrees for suggested time on the can. they're holding up pretty good.
03-27-20, 01:16 PM (This post was last modified: 03-27-20, 07:11 PM by theman440.)
Thanks for the tip but i'm not going to paint the headers. I might try removing the rust with Naval Jelly then leave 'em alone.
Here is some interesting history about these headers - CPPA was the performance parts division of Chrysler Power Magazine way back in the eighties. When they decided to make headers Roland Osborne (founder of the mag) used a set of old Mickey Thompson Headers to copy from. They were those headers that had those really long squarish collectors - anybody remember them? Some years later Roland Helped TTI Performance Exhaust get started by letting them copy (and also improve upon) the CPPA headers. Also when TTI needed cars to design their exhaust systems my '66 Coronet was used to design their '66-'67 B-Body systems. The car is shown in photos in the instructions of the kit - ask Mike Maloney (DCR admin) about it! At that time my Dad, Dave Dudgeon owned the car, he was a contributor to Chrysler Power Magazine and was friends with Roland. Roland called him the "Chrysler Power McGuyver". I spent lots of time at the Chrysler Power headquarters back in the eighties - that's how I know all this stuff. Here is my Dad's '66 -
12008
This is at the Chrysler Power Magazine booth 4 or 5 years ago @ Mopars at the Strip.
12009
If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?
04-21-20, 12:19 AM (This post was last modified: 04-21-20, 02:23 PM by theman440.)
Thanks Joe -
The other day I stumbled on a thread (forget where) about coolant flow issues in water pump housings. I surely don't want to fight overheating issues while at the track. I have no idea who made the no-name aluminum one I had for this engine so I decided to look it over - well I noticed a few potential issues and decided to address them. 1. The passage from the pump to the passenger side block (lower hole - to water jacket area) looked to me to be very small and restrictive. I got out my die grinder and carbide bit and proceeded to open it up. I did not take a before pic but here is an after pic - I believe I was able to open it up at least 50%
2. I made patterns of the block passages on both sides and compared how the holes lined up with the w/p housing. The drivers side wasn't too bad and I only needed to grind a couple small areas to allow smooth flow.
3. The passenger side is a different story - the darkened areas are where the block passages meet the w/p housing, not good. If I just grind out the black area the space between the holes will be awful thin. I'm going to have the lower passage (left) welded to build up material then grind to match the block.
If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?
OK - jumping around here a little bit. I took some time to get the carburetor ready, test fit the throttle bracket. I bought this from somebody on Moparts. I had to move the ball stud to a different hole in order to make it work right with this bracket.
Next was the regulator bracket, it was supposed to be built for my regulator - somebody lied. I had to drill new holes. Also I mocked up the W/O throttle switch.
Next up was fabbing-up new hardlines from the regulator to the carb inlets. I still had tubing left over from the last build, it's always nice when you don't have to buy more supplies for a project. You can see the 1/8 pipe plug in the fitting just to the right of the regulator, I used to have a fuel press gauge here but I decided to move it to the inner fender to not subject it to engine vibration.
Lastly I blew the carburetor apart to rebuild it. It was amazingly clean inside - good leaded racing gasoline is nice to carburetors.
If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?
04-21-20, 12:21 AM (This post was last modified: 04-21-20, 02:27 PM by theman440.)
More jumping around - I'm using a Milodon external line oil pump on this motor. It doesn't come with a cover/filter mount so I will use the one off my old pump. I got out the die grinder to smooth out some passages, also test fit it and see how well all the passages & bolt holes lined up. Here are some observations - 1. the port out of the pressure side of the pump to the filter is roughly 9/16 - I smoothed out the transition see pic below. 2. the port out of the filter (thru the threaded nipple) is roughly 7/16 (the port is actually 9/16 but the nipple cuts it down to 7/16) 3. the port thru the Milodon pump body is 1/2 4. the port (Pressure) in the block is 5/8 5. the pressure port on the cover (out) did not line up perfectly with the thru port on the pump - I massaged it with a carbide bit. That's 4 different size holes throughout the pressure circuit, 7/16-5/8 - not ideal IMO. I contemplated opening up all passages to 9/16 or even 5/8 but I don't think it can be done without causing other problems. Considering the thru port on the pump is 1/2 which is the same as the factory pump and the fact that these RB's have a pretty good oiling system I decided to only open up the filter nipple in the cover to 1/2, it was easy to drill out. So the smallest hole (port) in the pressure circuit is now 1/2.
If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?
Isn't it something that all the work you do and once you button it up, no one but you will know and appreciate it. Well... you and us... and maybe the guy looking at your tail lights.
