Stock 440 slight bore,mild cam. Heads mild porting. (Shooting from the hip as a close friend did the rebuild and I don't have all the specs in front of me.)
He would like to see the above items installed to compliment what has been done to the heads. We are going to run headers. Gonna see only cruise duty but want it to run if the need arises. What are some opinions on intakes and carbs along with a streetable torque converter. Would a trans cooler be necc? Also trying to keep the engine appearing stock with dual snorkel air cleaner and stock hood. Yes a lot of variables but don't hurt to ask.
09-27-15, 03:45 PM (This post was last modified: 09-27-15, 03:48 PM by thebankerstoy.)
My advice would be to make sure that whatever parts you may consider purchasing for this project work well together as a complete package. It's extremely easy to get caught up in purchasing separate parts for different assemblies of the car including the engine, transmission, suspension and other various sub assemblies that seem to be the latest, greatest parts available and while that individual part might be a great part in itself, it won't work well with all of the other parts being used, so folks end up with a lot of cool parts, but also end up with less than satisfactory results with those parts.
I've been amazed over the years to see folks who have added huge carbs, or camshafts to an otherwise stock engine, or added a set of 4.10 gears to a car with a stock low performance engine and transmission and wondered why their cars ran like crap and were getting their doors blown off by better engineered vehicles.
Doing more research before you purchase any parts will save you money in the long run and will make for a much more enjoyable ride.
Richard
For some unknown reason, nobody seems to take me seriously............
theman440 Wrote:Id say 2000-2500 stall, good dual plane intake, and 750-800 cfm vacuum secondary carb
X2 here.. I'd just go on the lower side of the carb, 750 CFM vac sec would be largest I'd go. Can't go wrong with the Performer RPM manifold, it seems to work real good down low and still pull your hair out higher up.
I love Mopars so much I'm date coding the skid marks in my underwear.
Sounds a lot like my daughter's car. I just put a hydraulic roller in it because the flat tappet Comp Cams gave up after 300 or so street miles and 28 runs.
I love my Frank Lupo Dynamic 9.5 inch converter. I highly recommend a good 9.5 inch even if it's not Frank's. Call them and they will figure out the proper stall. Never 100% guarantee that the converter guy will nail it, but Frank has never done me wrong in the 30+ years I have been dealing with him. The 9.5 behaves very much like a stock converter when cruising but stalls higher when you nail it.
I run 906 heads with 1.81/2.14 valves - home ported. Ran a 750 vacuum secondary but it was never right - very lazy and inconsistent off the line and very rich at idle. Last week I dumped the vacuum secondary and put a Holley 750 double pumper on it that I have owned forever and just rebuilt it. The car really seems to like it but have not yet been to the track with the new cam and carb. If it is only street driven vacuum sec should be ok but a double pumper will get you better performance.
My CR is too low at 9.0:1. I run a 1 3/4 header with 2 1/2 inch pipes including 2 1/2 inch tail pipes.
For AFR with the 750 DP, I am at 14 idle, 13 WOT and 13 - 13.5 at cruise. That's pretty darn good for no additional tuning.
I am a fan of the Holley Street Dominator intake. I know its old school, but it works pretty darn good and is low profile. Other intakes are also good choices but I have not direct experience with them.
I also run 3.55 gears with P255/60-15 M/T Street Radials. I would prefer a little taller tire but not gonna happen with this car. Highway RPM could be a bit lower. I'm putting it back to stock (including 3.23 gears) and building a 69 GTX clone to replace this one as far as a street/strip car. GTX is getting a Gearvendors OD.
