Still working on this overcharging.i am using the flat vr with the triangular plug is the blue wire the input I need to check for voltage drop?also do you know if I should get full battery voltage at the alternator hook up of both field wires with key in run motor off?thanks for the help
Hibbing_Coronet_500 Wrote:What kind of Alt are you running? As well what kind of Voltage reg are you using?
I upgraded to the 70`s / 80`s Flat pack triangle connector Voltage regulator. I have the squareback dual field alt and went thru a overcharge issue while testing my workmanship during the upgrade.
It was due to voltage drop thru bulkhead and a bad ground at the Voltage regulator.
Fix the ground and put the Vr on a relay...
Read Hot Rod Mag 05/13 issue
Haven't picked up mag yet but thinking about putting vr on a relay - how do you wire it up?
I'll try to post a schematic later today. Basically you want to intercept the blue wire from bulkhead to the ballast. That is if your voltage regulator is wired through the ballast? The schematic will make it clear.
What your trying to do is provide full voltage to the ballast also the voltage reg see's the real voltage at hand. Also it's a good place to power your ingition module and tie in your dangly bits volt meter..
Hibbing_Coronet_500 Wrote:I'll try to post a schematic later today. Basically you want to intercept the blue wire from bulkhead to the ballast. That is if your voltage regulator is wired through the ballast? The schematic will make it clear.
What your trying to do is provide full voltage to the ballast also the voltage reg see's the real voltage at hand. Also it's a good place to power your ingition module and tie in your dangly bits volt meter..
Thank you!the new harness is a M&h factory repro so I assume its set up thru the ballast.i will check.thanks!
Here is a silly test you can do to prove you have voltage drop through the bulkhead in, through the switch, and back out through the bulkhead.
Just for giggles: let's say 12.5 volts is battery voltage.
Ok. Lets measure the voltage at the starter relay lug. That's where power is fed into the car via fuseable link. Lets say that voltage is 12.4 volts. Lost 1 /10 of a volt. No biggie.
Ok: key on "Run" engine off. Lets measure the voltage at the key side of the ballast. Make sure your ground remains the same through all tests.
Okay.. We have 7.3 volts at the key side of the ballast.
In a perfect world? We should have at least 12.2
Okay. Now the voltage reg see's 7.2 volts. And wants to make up that voltage when we really have what we need..
Why?
Because most 45 year old mopars have seen better days when it comes to circuitry thru the bulkhead, the ignition switch, parasitic draw from “Key run” items such as the tachometer, and getting voltage back out thru the bulkhead to its intended target.
Quick test:
Key on engine off.
Battery voltage 12.5 v
Voltage at starter relay lug 12.4 v (Main feed to the car via fusible link)
Voltage at the “Key run” side of ballast resistor 8.2 v. This reading is low because of voltage drop thru the bulkhead, key switch, and back out.
In a perfect world they should be within half volt of each other.
I used a Relay harness from Oreillys Part number “BWD #PT193”
I stepped up to the Bosch cube relay 40 amp with the built in mounting flange.
I fused it off of the starter relay lug using a 20 amp inline fuse. I used 12 ga wire. Color is not important unless you get confused?
I used blue, white, green and red.
Being I also attached other items to this relay I will mention them too.
From the relay “Out” terminal #87. I connected a red wire to a large bare metal barrel connector. The barrel connector will serve as my junction point to feed the following items. Then will be crimped and soldered.
From there it’s a blue wire to the blue wire on the Voltage regulator.
Next I connected two red wires to the barrel connector. I ran one into the car to feed the volt meter. And one to the Mopar ignition module.
Next I ran another blue wire to the Key run side of the Ballast Resistor.
So off that one wire I branched out into 4 wires going to 4 different items.
Other than intercepting the trigger wire. I used the old key run wire off of the ballast to trigger the relay to power up.
#30 = Fused power in (Battery or starter relay lug as source)
#85 = Relay ground
#86 = Trigger wire
#87 = Power out to target or targets.
Hibbing_Coronet_500 Wrote:How to put a Mopar Voltage regulator on a Relay.
Why?
Because most 45 year old mopars have seen better days when it comes to circuitry thru the bulkhead, the ignition switch, parasitic draw from “Key run” items such as the tachometer, and getting voltage back out thru the bulkhead to its intended target.
Quick test:
Key on engine off.
Battery voltage 12.5 v
Voltage at starter relay lug 12.4 v (Main feed to the car via fusible link)
Voltage at the “Key run” side of ballast resistor 8.2 v. This reading is low because of voltage drop thru the bulkhead, key switch, and back out.
In a perfect world they should be within half volt of each other.
I used a Relay harness from Oreillys Part number “BWD #PT193”
I stepped up to the Bosch cube relay 40 amp with the built in mounting flange.
I fused it off of the starter relay lug using a 20 amp inline fuse. I used 12 ga wire. Color is not important unless you get confused?
I used blue, white, green and red.
Being I also attached other items to this relay I will mention them too.
From the relay “Out” terminal #87. I connected a red wire to a large bare metal barrel connector. The barrel connector will serve as my junction point to feed the following items. Then will be crimped and soldered.
From there it’s a blue wire to the blue wire on the Voltage regulator.
Next I connected two red wires to the barrel connector. I ran one into the car to feed the volt meter. And one to the Mopar ignition module.
Next I ran another blue wire to the Key run side of the Ballast Resistor.
So off that one wire I branched out into 4 wires going to 4 different items.
Other than intercepting the trigger wire. I used the old key run wire off of the ballast to trigger the relay to power up.
#30 = Fused power in (Battery or starter relay lug as source)
#85 = Relay ground
#86 = Trigger wire
#87 = Power out to target or targets.
thank you very much for your effort to help! it all makes sense except one thing - in looking at wires from my bulkhead it looks like the ign 1 run wire is blue with white tracer(if i read wiring diagram right).can i just intercept it before it gets into the harness and let the relay out power it from there?thanks again,david
