The end of my 2014 summer??? :(

[DannyHavs]

This could be the end to my summer cruise season.

Long story short...

I bought a set of Magnum wheels through Craigslist late last year and had them installed. As it turned out, these were from a Ford and they were rubbing on my upper control arm (in the front... the rear wheels are fine).

After I realized this... I did some research and decided to use spacers to get these to fit.

This past week, I learned that I had managed to shear off 3 of the 5 studs on the drivers side... I haven't checked the passenger side, those may be damaged as well.

This also caused a really weird/bad wear pattern on the driver side front tire... so I may need a new tire as well.

I'm am looking at either getting 2 new Magnum 500's for the front or just getting 4 all new wheels and tires.

I want to be sure about the correct backspacing for a 1966 Dodge Coronet... I have seen a couple other threads and it seems like 4.25 in. Backspace is correct.

So, if I am looking at a new set of wheels, I should be looking at 4.25 backspacing???

Anybody have any leads on a new set on MOPAR Magnum 500's??


Here's a shot of my sheared studs... will I be able to get this off and take it somewhere to get the replaced and is this a good time to ditch the "reverse threaded" studs??

4393

I just asked a lot of questions and I usually do ask a lot of questions here, but you guys always help me.

THANKS in advance!

-Dan

[Hibbing_Coronet_500]

How thick was your wheel spacer? 1/4 inch is all you need. Anymore than that and there's gonna be trouble.
Now you can order 10 1/2 X 20 wheel studs a half inch longer than the ones that came stock.
Get them pressed out and new pressed in. Easy beans!

Classic industries and Corker tire sell "New" 500 wheels that FIT without spacers.

[DannyHavs]

How thick was your wheel spacer? 1/4 inch is all you need. Anymore than that and there's gonna be trouble.
Now you can order 10 1/2 X 20 wheel studs a half inch longer than the ones that came stock.
Get them pressed out and new pressed in. Easy beans!

Classic industries and Corker tire sell "New" 500 wheels that FIT without spacers.

They were 1" spacers...

I wanted to BE SURE they'd clear the UCA.

So........ I could get 1/4 spacers, get these old studs drilled out (get new regular thread ((not revers thread)) studs inserted and I'd be good to go.

[Hibbing_Coronet_500]

Yeah! I'd say so. So you had / have reverse thread? Yeah you gotta get that changed over. I'm running a 1/4 spacer and I use loctite on the front studs for a backup and have not had issue.

I am Planing on buying new wheels to cure the problem.

[thebankerstoy]

I'll second the Coker Tire recommendation! I bought a full set of the 14x6 Magnum 500 wheels and a full set of P225-70R-14 B.F.G. Radial T/A Tires from them for my sons 1972 Dart Swinger back in 2006. It was very cool, as Coker Tire attended the Good Guys show here in Phoenix that year, so they sent my wheels and tires out with the crew that attended the show, so I had no shipping costs!

Regarding your wheel spacers, do these spacers bolt on, or do they just slip over the studs and are held in place by the wheels?

Because the A-Body cars still used the small 4" bolt pattern in 1972 and the Magnum 500 wheels were never offered in the small 4" bolt pattern by Chrysler, or Ford, I had to use a set of the 5x4 bolt pattern to 5x4.5 bolt pattern wheel adapters on my son's Dart. I'm sure my adapters are completely different than your wheel spacers that you're using on your Coronet, but my adapters have been on the Dart since 2006 and we've had zero issues with them, so I'm not sure why your spacers have failed you. After putting the new spacers, wheels and tires on, did you re-torque all of the lug nuts to make sure they were tight after a hundred miles or so? If the spacers are the slip on style, they could have worked the lug nuts loose which would have led to shearing the studs off if loosened up enough. We don't even want to talk about what would have happened if those last two studs would have been sheared off!

If you purchased your spacers new, you may want to contact the folks who sold them to you and ask some questions about why they may have failed. Shearing off 3 of the 5 studs on that one wheel is a serious problem that the seller should be told about and unless they sold them to you without a warranty, they might be willing to help you get the issues taken care of if they are a reputable company.

Richard

Coker Tire web page link: http://www.cokertire.com/

My sons '72 Dart Swinger with the wheels and tires that I purchased from Coker Tire back in 2006 that are still in place today.

[DannyHavs]

I might just have to take the leap and get all new wheels and tires all the way around.

That Coker set looks really nice!

I don't see any kind of warranty on the website that I bought the adapters/spacers from... I'll email him though to let him know what happened. http://lugmanusa.com

I feel like a dumbass after I realize what happened and what could have happened.

I'm new to all of this, so I'm learning as I go and I'd do this a lot different today... I'm thankful I was going so slow when that 3rd stud failed.

I keep saying "spacer" but I realize it's actually an adapter and spacer. I didn't need to "adapt" the wheel to fit the drum, but I thought this was the best way to push the wheel out so it didn't rub.

Here's what I had on there... this didn't change the bolt pattern. It just gave me the room for upper control arm clearance.

As you can see in my picture... the lugs that held this adapter on are the lugs that got sheared.
4394

I didn't re-torque the adapter lugs.

I re-torqued the lugs on the wheels this year, but I should have taken them off and re-torqued the adapter lugs.


Thanks for the info... first thing I need to do is get my car in to get these studs replaced.

[DannyHavs]

New tires might also address the "loose steering" issues that I posted about.

[ws27]

Danny, your best bet is to spend the money on correct new wheels and tires. There are a bunch of places you can get them, try to find made in either USA or Canada for the best quality. I think you figured out what the worst case scenario is, thank your guardian angel.

On replacing the studs, you can't just drive them out of the hub, you must cut them out and usually that will require sacrificing the drum also. If you want help or suggestions, we can help. Mopar peened the splined part of the stud over the drum, so if you try to just push out the stud, you will ruin the hole.

You might be able to get a good machinist to cut the rest of the peened portion our without hurting everything. If you have questions, ask away.

[DannyHavs]

Danny, your best bet is to spend the money on correct new wheels and tires. There are a bunch of places you can get them, try to find made in either USA or Canada for the best quality. I think you figured out what the worst case scenario is, thank your guardian angel.

On replacing the studs, you can't just drive them out of the hub, you must cut them out and usually that will require sacrificing the drum also. If you want help or suggestions, we can help. Mopar peened the splined part of the stud over the drum, so if you try to just push out the stud, you will ruin the hole.

You might be able to get a good machinist to cut the rest of the peened portion our without hurting everything. If you have questions, ask away.

I see what your talking about with that part of the stud. THANK YOU.

So, will I be able to get that drum off to take it in?

I need to take off the other wheel to see if there was damage to those studs.

Might be a good time to think about disk conversion (wishful thinking)??

[ws27]

Either way will work, fixing the studs should be quicker and cheaper. But if you planning a disc conversion, then go for it.


You'll have to disassemble the wheel bearing to take the drum off.