440 swap

[Jmos68]

I'm wanting to do a 383 or 440 swap into my 68 coronet 440 (original 6cyl) What's the best year engines and are there any year engines I need to stay away from? Are they all the same?

Jerry

[65rbdodge]

they are all the same. after 1971 the big blocks had cast cranks but that is a non issue unless you are building an 500+hp motor. 383's turned into 400's in 1971 too, there is nothing wrong with them, the all respond well to modifications. pay no attention to anyone who uses the word smog or thin cylinder walls. do not pay extra for any block stamped HP, there is no difference between it and a standard block.

[markz]

I got a complete 76 440 for sale out of a demolition derby car if you are interested. Ran great when taken out.Think you are about 130 miles from me.

But the question is what do want to do with it?

[Jmos68]

Just looking for a good street able engine that makes decent hp. I've read the later 440's where down on hp, plus motor home 440's where down on hp as we'll but, I don't know. I'm new to 60's mopars and wanting to learn.

Jerry

[ws27]

Don't forget, you need a V-8 K frame. Or conversion mounts if Shumaker makes them anymore.

[Jmos68]

Yes, I already have the k frame but not the mounts. I figured I'd wait to buy an engine first. I still need bigger t bars too. I assume those are available aftermarket?

[65rbdodge]

yes torsion bars are available.

[markz]

I personally would not be too concerned with the small torsion bars. They are what you want for drag racing, and are ok for the street. I would only put bigger ones in if I only drove it on the street with no racing, and even then I would not be too worried.

As far as newer engines down on hp, it is not that easy of an answer.

For example, the 76 440 that I have for sale should have 452 heads. They are about the best stock heads you can get for a 440. Very similar to the late 60's 906 heads, plus have induction hardened seats. Some bowl work and runner porting can get you close to where you want to be. Of course new aluminum heads make more power.

The ONLY disadvantage of the newer engine is the cast crank. As stated before, it is good to over 500 hp. You can get a chrome moly new crank that will give you 700 hp+ power level for about $500 -$700 (but don't quote me on that price). Or a good used steel crank for about $150.

The power is in the compression level and camshaft. I assume you will rebuild the motor, and you really don't want to keep stock pistons at what you are looking for. Same with a camshaft. The cam, compression level and cylinder heads will dictate your power level not the year of the engine. So those components in the engine you buy don't mean anything.

For an example, I detuned my old race motor and suck it in my daughter's 67 Coronet that weighs 4000 lbs plus. Put a used stock crank in it (old one was cracked), stock rods, old aluminum pistons, home ported 906 heads, headers, reasonable converter and 3.55 sure grip rear. 9:1 compression. Car runs 13.80's at 96 mph and I think I can drop .2 to .3 seconds when I put a decent carb on it.

[markz]

And I recommend the polyloc (spelling?) motor mounts with a stock or poly transmission mount.

[Jmos68]

Thanks for the info Markz.