OK, I installed my new Pertronix Ignitor III, with the Flame Thrower III Coil and the 7mm OEM 'look' wires they sent me. Firstly, if you are thinking of doing this..stop THINKING, go DO IT! Secondly...if you are still reading this, I thought I told you to go DO IT! But seriously.. 1. Install is easy - Looks very simple, but please take the time to read the 'very short' instruction leaflet. Trust me, this look simpler than it really is. 2. Make sure to mark your distributor to engine position IF you plan on taking the dizzy out. It IS possible to leave it in, but I didn't. There are some small screws etc. when putting the Ignitor III into the dizzy, and I did not want to chance anything falling down some bottomless pit in my engine bay. 3. Installing into the dizzy is just like they say in the instructions, take care to get the vacuum advance positioned correctly. And route the wires correctly from the Ignitor through the hole in the side of the body of the distributor. 4. I bypassed the ballast since I used the Flame Thrower III. I have read some people did NOT bypass the ballast...I don't know why you would not do this. Bypassing simply means you take the wires of each side off the Ballast, and make a LOOP. I made a short length of wire, added blade connectors on the end, and joined them up that way. For now mine are zip tied to part of the loom nearby my ballast. But later I will purchase a cheap ballast, rip the back out of it, and create a connection that uses the ballast connectors, but join the wires up BEHIND the ballast. (making sure it is insulated from the firewall of course) 5. Once that is done, I checked the power situation, all was good. 6. Start the car. I had a friend with me, so the car was started and did not want to fire up, a quick rotation of the distributor which was not yet clamped down, solved that while cranking and the engine fired right up. 7. Tune... 8. We also checked the Lambda AFR (air-fuel-ratio), and set it to 0.970. And after the first tune, we road tested, noticed a stumble at low speed starting. Went back and changed out the metering rods on the carter 4 barrel. To a richer pair. Re-tuned, reset to 0.970. Dialed in an advance of 33 degrees, and everything was 'on song'. I could advance some more probably to about 37 degrees or so. But my 383 is stock, and I do not want to introduce detonation. The car sounds much 'stronger', hard to explain, but the engine is more 'urgent' rather than lazy sounding before changing to electronic ignition. Of course, starting is simple and quick. Throttle response is snappier, and I should see some improvement in fuel economy..LOL (like that is ever a concern for ANY Big Block or muscle car owner) Tonight after cruising about a bit, I was side by side at the lights with a very late model luxo Mercedes - E220 ish model. Lights turn green, we both go for it, I had the holeshot, he began creeping up, but then I floored it she kicked back and it was all over. The guy gives me a big thumbs up when I looked in the rear view mirror and flashes his lights. I know for sure we were both going for it, and I would not have had the pull prior to the electronic ignition. I had no misfires or stumbles, just linear acceleration..I might have started to tear up a bit..Felt good and has been a bloody long time since I have had that feeling of ALL muscle going straight ahead so steadily. ![[Image: attachment.php?attachmentid=3802&stc=1&d=1396167326]](http://www.dodgecoronet.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3802&stc=1&d=1396167326)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]My Flickr gallery for my '67http://www.flickr.com/photos/19913797@N0...666472876/
