Thanks Guys,
unfortunatly I didn't get a call back this afternoon, now that's not a first...
No idea what settings they did on carb or ingnition.
To be honest that knowledge is beyond me.
I will tell the mechanic to read this topic and consider all your ideas.
Tomorrow I'll try to speak to him again, and see what they think.
I"ll keep you posted, Thanks so far.
Ok guys,
they went through everything again today. And are absolutely sure cam/timingchain are installed perfect.
Compression is ok.
Carb and timing are checked again and changes were tried.
All basics are checked, adjustments tried and checked again.
When transmission oil reaches the right temperature, the engine dropped (too much) in rpm (in "D") but kept running.
And when brakes are released the car moves (faster than normal) right away as if there is no slip at all in the converter.
So, they are convinced the converter is the culprit.
Unfortunatly the right converter was not on the shelf, so a TCI 2400 is ordered in the States. Should arrive in Holland next week..
If the new converter doesn't solve this problem, they will not charge me for all efforts they put in this converter adventure!
And the search will continue.
Lets hope it's the converter.
I'll keep you posted.
While waiting for the converter, you might try a cheap tick: Drill two 1/4" holes in each of the throttle blades for the primaries. Verify that the orifice inside the primary barrell is partly exposed per the standard tuning guidlines. Also, would want to know the vacum readings (in Hg) from the intake manifold in N, R and D. Furthermorem, did the shop check for vacum leaks around the carb and intake manifold. I have my doubts regarding the converter being the culprit, but I agree, it is probably not the ignition. I am excited to know what will be the explanation for this problem.
Ragnar in Iceland
The shop is reading along Raqnar,
and I'll share you ideas with them.
Not sure what the vacuum readings are. I know that he always works with a vacuummeter when adjusting.
I'm not totally convinced either about the converter.
On the other hand, we put it in about two years ago. It had been laying on another (shop)shelf.
God knows what type, and in what condition this original converter is.
Might have been one from a truck or camper?
1/4" holes are too big. Typically the holes are around 0.125". Holley sells them with holes from about 0.093" to 0.152".
example:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-26-95/overview/
If the converter is showing no slip then it is bad. Rarely do converters fail in this manner but it is possible.
Its always easier to troubleshoot problems like this in person...........
One question no one's asked.
What do they have the idle set to in Park?
67440Dodge Wrote:One question no one's asked.
What do they have the idle set to in Park?
Well I wasn't there this time, but he set idle at about 8/900 rpm last time I was present..
Yea you boys need to get this bad boy on the streets and kicking and little ass,
what a mean looking car, very nice car bro Beer
I'm having the same issue with my 68 318 2 bbl Barracuda. It was running fine last year. We have adjusted the carb and timing, and it idles smoothly, but good luck keeping it running in gear. Once its warmed up it will idle in gear, but you really have to finesse the throttle to keep it going as you accelerate from a stop. Once up to speed, its fine. But every time you stop it stalls. We just used the carb on another buddy's car to drive it home from PA and his car loved that carb. I'm thinking vacuum leak, vacuum advance or ignition. I have been having electrical issues with the car over the last year.
Ok guys,
the new converter is in. And it works!
It keeps running in drive and reverse. Sure carb needed a little adjusting to keep it running fine.
But that just wasn't possible with the other converter.
They think this old (thick fat) converter was once in a truck or something, and had seen better days..
Thanks for your ideas!