DodgeCoronet.com

Full Version: Engine dies in "Drive"
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Pages: 1 2 3 4
Stargazer Wrote:What's a "cog out", 440spd?
And AFR readings?

Sorry for my ignorance..

When installing the timing chain it is possible that it could be one tooth out when lining up the markers on the sprockets.

AFR.... Air, Fuel, Ratio
Very easy to misalign the timing marks..... we have all done it ....lol

[Image: jturcotte_1992.gif]
It sounds as if the engine stalls when put under a load (being put into drive). I've had brand new fuel pumps fail, so I'd double check your fuel pump to make sure that it's providing the proper fuel pressure and flow to the carb. Have the gentlemen at your shop put an in-line fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line between your fuel pump and carb to check the fuel pressure at idle and when it's put into gear?

Some information on your car would be helpful.

What carb are you running? (brand name and cfm rating, 650 cfm, 750 cfm, 800 cfm etc)
Is it a new or rebuilt carb?
What camshaft are you running? (brand name and part number) (if it's a performance cam, the cam specification sheet that came with the cam would be helpful)
How many modifications were done to the engine during it's rebuild? (engine block machine work, cylinder heads machine work etc)
Was this engine rebuilt to a factory stock specification, or a more modified street / strip specification?
What rear differential gear ratio are you running? (2.76, 3.23, 2.55, 3.91 etc)
Is your automatic transmission stock, or has it been modified? (shift kit, valve body modifications etc)

Providing more information would help folks here on the DCR give you more accurate and helpful answers, as it's difficult to give help when we don't know what we're dealing with.

Richard
As stated, we have all missed the timing marks at one time or another. Couldn't believe it but I did it on my daughter's 440 when installed the hyd roller. However I did find it before assembly because I did degree the cam and found the error.

If they degreed the cam it should be right but I don't trust anyone but myself on these types of issues. Can you get them to give you the actual numbers they got? If not I would do it again..........

The AFR (air fuel ratio) would tell you problems with the carb and if you had major vacuum leaks. Have you looked for vacuum leaks?

I do agree with checking fuel pressure. I have in the past tywrapped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield wipers to troubleshoot fuel system problems.

On a new car I would say check for a plugged catalytic converter, but I doubt you have a plugged exhaust on an old car. But plugged exhaust can also cause this issue.
4404spd Wrote:Very easy to misalign the timing marks..... we have all done it ....lol

[Image: jturcotte_1992.gif]

Ah Yes,

in an earlier rebuild by another shop this went wrong.
They used the marks but it seems if you use different brands one needs to use the degreeing method.
The engine ran like sh@t because of this.
Only good thing was it didn't break due to low compression pistons at that time..
thebankerstoy Wrote:It sounds as if the engine stalls when put under a load (being put into drive). I've had brand new fuel pumps fail, so I'd double check your fuel pump to make sure that it's providing the proper fuel pressure and flow to the carb. Have the gentlemen at your shop put an in-line fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line between your fuel pump and carb to check the fuel pressure at idle and when it's put into gear?

Some information on your car would be helpful.

What carb are you running? (brand name and cfm rating, 650 cfm, 750 cfm, 800 cfm etc)
Is it a new or rebuilt carb?
What camshaft are you running? (brand name and part number) (if it's a performance cam, the cam specification sheet that came with the cam would be helpful)
How many modifications were done to the engine during it's rebuild? (engine block machine work, cylinder heads machine work etc)
Was this engine rebuilt to a factory stock specification, or a more modified street / strip specification?
What rear differential gear ratio are you running? (2.76, 3.23, 2.55, 3.91 etc)
Is your automatic transmission stock, or has it been modified? (shift kit, valve body modifications etc)

Providing more information would help folks here on the DCR give you more accurate and helpful answers, as it's difficult to give help when we don't know what we're dealing with.

Richard

I just spoke to the shop. They will put their heads together this afternoon, and go from there. I told them all your ideas guys.

Richard, some answers on your questions;

on my request the shop removed the NOISY electrical fuelpump with a new mechanical pump (about a year ago). They'll check pressure again.

Carb, Holley 650 double pumper, put in new. Hasn't seen much action because of rebuild.

Comp Cams camshaft CBR XE274H-10
[Image: 20160517_130956_zpsaejpttvg.jpg]

Engine bored, honed and crank balanced more to modified street specs. Overbore (I thought 0.030 or 0.040), Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, 440Source alu Stealth heads. Edelbrock performer intake.

3.55 Gears.

727 transmission, Hurst Vmatic shifter (but brought back to automatic shifting).
markz Wrote:As stated, we have all missed the timing marks at one time or another. Couldn't believe it but I did it on my daughter's 440 when installed the hyd roller. However I did find it before assembly because I did degree the cam and found the error.

If they degreed the cam it should be right but I don't trust anyone but myself on these types of issues. Can you get them to give you the actual numbers they got? If not I would do it again..........

The AFR (air fuel ratio) would tell you problems with the carb and if you had major vacuum leaks. Have you looked for vacuum leaks?

I do agree with checking fuel pressure. I have in the past tywrapped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield wipers to troubleshoot fuel system problems.

On a new car I would say check for a plugged catalytic converter, but I doubt you have a plugged exhaust on an old car. But plugged exhaust can also cause this issue.

Mark,
they installed to specs, but found it was running better with 4 degrees in advance.
Did not use the marks, but degreeing method.
ARF, vacuum and fuel pressure will be checked (again).
This whole deal is about a 69 Super Bee, btw.

Thanks for your input guys!

[Image: 13029718_583183681857023_578154393039613...l79lv0.jpg]
Oh and before we forget, the engine stopped (stumbled) in Drive with the old distributor, and now with the new!
Even after adjusting (both) timing ect.
Is it to early to say ignition isn't the problem?
Nice looking car.. I think Richard is jealous there may be a brighter yellow one than his!

Thanks for posting the cam card.. It's got a decent amount of overlap to it, so it going to idle a little rough. And while it should have a looser converter, a stock one should still let it idle.

Any idea what they are setting the timing to? I'd set the timing to about 10-15 when idling at 850RPM, and then go back thru the 4 mixture screws and see if it makes a difference.

Another issue could be how the are adjusting idle speed. If they are using the throttle plate screw, they may be opening the plates too far and exposing one of the part throttle circuits (can't remember the name now). When the RPM drops when it's in drive, that circuit stops functioning and can make it run poorly. (been there, done that, got the T-shirt)
Gee Mike, I could never be jealous of another bright yellow Coronet, especially one as nice as Stargazer's! We just need to help him get it running as nice as it looks!

I'll be very interested in hearing what the shop finds out regarding the fuel pressure readings at idle and when put into gear.

Richard
Pages: 1 2 3 4