Hi everyone! I'm new here and new to the Dodge Coronet. I just picked up a 72 with a rebuilt 318 in really good condition except for a few electrical problems. The worst of which is that the indicators will not work. The emergency flashers work fine and I can hear the relay clicking. I pulled off the steering wheel to take a look at the indicator switch and it appears that the switch has been replaced as the plastic and connections look brand new. I took a peak under the steering column and the wires come out and connect to an 8 or 9 pin junction that then distributes them out further. That is where my investigation ended for now. A lot of the wires looked monkeyed with under the dash so it's almost impossible to follow the wiring diagram I have. Does anyone know how the wires that come out of the switch are supposed to be routed? Looking at this wiring harness makes me want to get a new remanufactured one and just spend a week rewiring to stock. I think there is a white, red yellow, yellow green, green, and green yellow coming off of the switch under the steering wheel. Any hints can help, thank you! God I hate electrical problems....
In the mean time I'm going to start working on bypassing the ammeter and maybe in the process find my blinker issues. If I do I'll post um here.
Are you saying the indicators in the dash are not working, or the front and rear bulbs are not blinking, or neither? There is a plug under the drivers kick panel that sometimes comes completely or partially apart. It connects the wires coming from the steering column to the rear light wiring harness. Just follow the wires from the column until you find it.
I'll check on that kick panel. As of right now, no lights are blinking including the dash lights. When I hit the hazards however they all blink.
If the rear lights work with the flashers, it won't be a problem with that connector, as those wires provide power for all rear lights. You might have a problem with the flasher being bad or missing. It is a metal plug in device, either rectangular or cylindrical. On my '68 it is behind the dash, near the steering column, but at some time Mopar started putting them on the fuse block. Find out where yours is located and remove it. It will have 2 prongs for power. Hook it up to 12 volts (polarity doesn't matter) and feel and listen to see if it clicks. I am referring to that noise you hear when you turn the turn signal on. If you can't hear it or feel it clicking, it is bad, so replace it. This flasher is separate from the emergency flasher device, so make sure you are checking the correct one. If the flasher clicks when you test it, but not when it is plugged in, you must then have a wiring problem.
The wiring diagram indicates 3 wires going to the emergency flasher (it still has only 2 prongs) and 2 wires going to the turn signal flasher. Here is a simplified wiring diagram from my '68 FSM.
Excellent information! Thank you mike1968rt! This will help a lot for checking continuity between the switch and the lights. I wrapped the car up for the winter yesterday as we are about to get a bunch of rain here so I may not get back to this for a bit. But before I did I took a bunch of pictures of what I'm looking at under the steering wheel.
This is the relay that clicks when the emergency flashers are engaged. It has two prongs but three wires like you had stated. Pink and black in this case.
5422
I'm not sure what this is. It seems like it may be a relay...?
5423
A couple of unhooked plugs. I'm wondering if the one of the left is where the indicator relay should be? Does the plug pattern look familiar to anyone? It two prongs but four wires coming out. The wires are colored black and black with a yellow stripe.
5424
Here is what Rock Auto lists as the "flasher relay" the plug orientation looks very similar to that black plug in my picture...
5427
Another mystery plug. One tan wire into a three prong female plug.
5425
The fuse box looks to be missing the horn relay(center 3 prong plug) and the right plug that is empty is labeled "Buzzer" I think. Also are the "ACC" and "BATT" plugs just for testing purposes or are there supposed to be wires going there?
5426
Starting from the top, the metal cylinder is a delay for the ignition key light. After the doors were closed this device kept the ignition key light on for about 20 - 30 seconds. The plug with 2 holes is for a dash speaker. Premium sound systems had two 6 x 9 speakers in the rear package tray and two small round speakers in the left and right side of the dash, pointed toward the windshield. I don't know what that other wire is for, but most likely some sort of accessory. The plug with the tan wire is a tap off of the roof light. Accessories such as the radio dial light and the ash tray light were plugged into it. Hence when you adjusted the brightness of the dash lights, the radio dial light and ash tray light dimmed too. The spade plugs on the fuse box are also there for accessories. The acc tap provides power only when the key is turned on, while the batt tap provides constant power. Over the years I have connected stuff like 8 tracks, cassettes and the like to those taps.
I forgot, if you didnt find another metal device I would guess you are missing the turn signal flasher. Here's hoping that that is so, and as soon as you get one and plug it in, all your problems will be solved!