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Full Version: Anatomy of a "Green Bearing"
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Figured since swapping bearings I'd dissect a "Green" bearing and show what it's made of. I'm sure other done, it, but never seen it here. Think most just press em off and on and throw em away.

To do this, I used an electric grinder with a thin cut off wheel over a air driven cut off wheel. It cut thru the material like butter. Total time to remove the entire deal, 15 minutes both axles. Took longer to put fire out on the piece of cardboard I had sparks hit.

First is a brand new one. The "improved" design over the original MP one, Attachment plate on left, then the bearing, you can see the snap ring that holds the bearing in place against backing plate, which from what I gather means if you got a clutch type Sure-Grip unit, you don't have to pull the thrust washers. Just below it is the oil seal to keep any oil that might leak past the inner seal from getting by. Supposedly you don't need the inner seal any longer, but I ran it just in case. You can see the seals covering up the bearings inside, and finally the locking retainer.

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Now here's what it looks like apart.

The Attachment plate is untouched, The retaining ring is actually like a piston ring, it just wraps around and the oil ring just slides right off.

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Now for the bearing and seals... The bearings are ball bearings riding in a groove on the inner race and held in place with a plastic retainer. What holds in this place? The 2 plastic seals on each side of the bearing/retainer, with a rubber wiper to prevent axle grease from getting out. and it's not super tough plastic either in regards to the race or the seal, a dull set of dykes cut thru it like it was nothing, the spring on the seal gave up more than a fight. Then finally the locking retainer. So basically, when making a turn, the only thing keeping the axle sliding is a piece of plastic, and while it's impossible for the bearings to leave the housing, it's gonna make the ass end of your car wobble like crazy because that bearing retainer or plastic side piece is not the strongest in the wold. Again, those dull dyke cut thru it like butter.

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Here's half the retainer, as you can see, the bearings ride in that groove, and nothing other than that plastic seal keeping it from coming out. 2 side grooves are for the side seals. You can see how the bearing has lots of support on a turn where side load is against the wheel side (ie left turn has lots support, right has minimal) Notice how little grease there is in there (the bearing was lot leaking when I took it apart)..

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And here's a pic of half the bearing retainer and bearing setup while still attached to the axles. Ignore the hammer marks on the retainer, I forgot how stupid it was to try and chisel them off.

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If doing this at home cause you don't have a press or the machine shops are clueless, you may be tempted to cut the retainer lock off first. Don't, do the outer bearing first. I cut a horizontal line on each side of the bearing, tried not to go all the way thru, then smacked the 2nd cut with a chisel and it fell apart.

Then do the outer retainer lock, line straight down the middle, you don't have to go all way to axle, close enough should be enough to relieve pressure. You may have to do same to other side and then it will slide off. Final inner race may just needed to have 1 cut or do like I did and cut a V and it may slide right off. If not, do same on other side.

So there you go... all you ever wanted to know about green bearings but were afraid to ask.
Made some changes above, got some steps mixed up with the pictures. My apologies if the word "dyke" offended anyone, I should have said "heterosexually challenged female cutting tools" Beer!
Great read Mike, I have "green" bearings on my drag car but I don't think I'd use them in a car built for hard extended cornering.
I don’t know what advantage they have over tapered other than not needing adjustment. And if you spin them, they are tougher to spin than tapered, so might gain some free RWHP with tapers….