So I wanted to wait to post about my fuel injection upgrade until all the bugs were worked out, but I need help with this one.
New additions are EZ EFI 1.0 (used), Summit CD ignition box, and Powermaster 100 amp alternator. The orange box and ballast resistor are removed. I have a jumper across the resistor terminals and this is also where I'm getting the switched power to the ignition and fuel injection. The car is up and running but the voltage constantly jumps between 14 & 16. Tried a new voltage regulator and tried the old alternator and problem still exists.
I tried a jumper for the switched leads for both injection and ignition box direct to battery and it still did it. Also tried a jumper from the VR case to neg post and still jumping back and forth. Could the 100 amp alternator have fried the VRs?
BTW, Is there another switched source under the dash that has power while cranking too?
So? Are you using switched 12 volt power originating from the bulkhead to the ballast as your source of 12 volt power? If so? That`s bad. The VR is seeing the swing in voltage thru the bulkhead and is over reacting to it.
You need to run the ignition and the voltage regulator from a key switched "relay" that is being supplied with clean 12 volt power straight from the battery. You can use the wire that goes to the ballast as the trigger for your relay. I did this to my Coronet and all my weird charging issues went away and the ignition system loves good stable voltage.
Hibbing_Coronet_500 Wrote:So? Are you using switched 12 volt power originating from the bulkhead to the ballast as your source of 12 volt power? If so? That`s bad. The VR is seeing the swing in voltage thru the bulkhead and is over reacting to it.
You need to run the ignition and the voltage regulator from a key switched "relay" that is being supplied with clean 12 volt power straight from the battery. You can use the wire that goes to the ballast as the trigger for your relay. I did this to my Coronet and all my weird charging issues went away and the ignition system loves good stable voltage.
Thanks, I will give that a try.
That's what I did Mark, I relayed it off the 12V I ran from the battery for the ECU..
So I hooked a relay up temporarily with jumper wires to test it. Used brown and blue wires to trigger relay feeding ignition and injection, volt meter still bouncing. I have a 4 post ballast resistor that I had to use with the orange box when I installed a new engine wiring harness a few years ago, that wiring has me a little confused. The harness was for the 69 Coronet with a 5 pin module upgrade built in. I think I'm missing something when I removed the orange box and ballast as the connections are still on the harness. I need to see if I can find a diagram for that harness. I also did the ammeter bypass back then. I'm going to go through that wiring to make sure I didn't knock something loose.
Hum? Loose battery connection? Bad ground? Using a quality volt gauge? VR grounded properly.. quality connection at VR?1
Found it! 5 wires going to ballast resistor: Brown from ignition 2 bundled with blue to coil, across from that is blue from ignition 1, bottom posts have green with tracer to module 5th pin- not used, across from that is a blue that goes God knows where but has voltage in run. I did not have that last wire connected to anything. Once I bundled it with the other blue and brown the gauge quit bouncing.
I did go with the relay as you suggested also.
Thanks for your assistance.
Mark