I've been using rotella 15-40 for a bit and have read they are lowering the zinc levels in it.. i was almost decided on Quaker state defy with the zinc levels and phosphorous levels that are in it for flat tappets..until i found out that they are discontinuing it.. im almost thinking about switching to mobil 1.. they actually have zinc levels and phosphorous levels listed on their website. the levels of zinc and phosphorous: the 10-40 has 1100 ppm of zinc and 1000 of phosphorous ..where the 15-50 has 1600 zinc and 1200 phosphorous.. the 15-50 wouldn't be too heavy as i have run 20-50 before with decent results..but im just curious if the 10-40 with the zinc and phos content it has would be enough for a stock engine with just a 4 barrel..(mainly because its easier to find especially in 5 quart jugs compared to the 15-50) also does anyone here have any opinions on our older engines running synthetic and what do you think on the various mobil oils i have mentioned? Last thought is i want something i can just buy at an auto parts store or walmart since i drive to carlisle and i just want ease of buying it.. i keep extra in the trunk going to carlisle but i just want something i can use/buy with peace of mind finding it in traveling just in case
Thanks
-John
After several cam failures last couple of years, I have switched to the Driven oils (Old Joe Gibbs Brand). They say to run the break-in oil (BR40) for 300 to 500 miles and then to switch to this for my 383s. Unfortunately looks like it just went up about 10%.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-03807
It depends on what youre running too i think... obviously a stock engine with looser tolerances isnt going to wipe a cam like high compression valve springs are going to.. so many variables lol.. its almost mind boggling lol
Avenger Wrote:It depends on what youre running too i think... obviously a stock engine with looser tolerances isnt going to wipe a cam like high compression valve springs are going to.. so many variables lol.. its almost mind boggling lol
These were almost stock grind cams. One was an old MP cam one was a new Comp Cam with less than 300 miles on it.
What were you running before when you wiped cams so I know what to avoid haha..
Avenger Wrote:What were you running before when you wiped cams so I know what to avoid haha..
Valvoline VR1
That's odd since so many people talk highly of it.. although it does have a ton of zinc and I have heard that too much can be just as bad as too little.. so who knows lol
I had a few cases of Kendall GT-1 30W, I finally ran out and went with Brad Penn, same formula as the old GT-1 and it works good, lots of zinc, I think you can get it in different wts, I've always ran 30W in the street cars.
KISS- 10-30 w/ stp zinc additive
We have never had a problem with VR-1 but always add a bottle of zinc.
I notice a few stores local are not carrying it anymore, not sure why.
I recently swapped over to Lucas Racing 20w-50 with a high degree of zinc in my R/T with its solid cam.