01-25-13, 09:58 AM
01-25-13, 02:57 PM
Just wondering if anybody has seen any dyno tests that show that these "shorty" style headers are any better than a set of the Chrysler big block HP cast iron exhaust manifolds? I ask because I've been running the HP factory manifolds on my big block powered cars for years, including my 1966 Coronet 500 and it's performance built 440. It's run high 12 second quarter mile passes in California in the cooler weather and low to mid 13 second quarter mile passes on a consistent basis here in Phoenix heat, and I have none of the issues with my system mentioned by most who run headers. It would be very interesting to see the difference between the factory and aftermarket manifolds.
Richard
Richard
01-25-13, 08:16 PM
thebankerstoy Wrote:Just wondering if anybody has seen any dyno tests that show that these "shorty" style headers are any better than a set of the Chrysler big block HP cast iron exhaust manifolds? I ask because I've been running the HP factory manifolds on my big block powered cars for years, including my 1966 Coronet 500 and it's performance built 440. It's run high 12 second quarter mile passes in California in the cooler weather and low to mid 13 second quarter mile passes on a consistent basis here in Phoenix heat, and I have none of the issues with my system mentioned by most who run headers. It would be very interesting to see the difference between the factory and aftermarket manifolds.I'd like to see that test as well. I actually have a set of HP manifolds sitting in my garage. but something felt weird about slapping cast iron exhaust manifolds onto my aluminum heads! haha.
Rich ard
01-26-13, 12:27 AM
thebankerstoy Wrote:Just wondering if anybody has seen any dyno tests that show that these "shorty" style headers are any better than a set of the Chrysler big block HP cast iron exhaust manifolds? I ask because I've been running the HP factory manifolds on my big block powered cars for years, including my 1966 Coronet 500 and it's performance built 440. It's run high 12 second quarter mile passes in California in the cooler weather and low to mid 13 second quarter mile passes on a consistent basis here in Phoenix heat, and I have none of the issues with my system mentioned by most who run headers. It would be very interesting to see the difference between the factory and aftermarket manifolds.
Rich ard
Richard, I tend to agree with your skepticism. A friend of mine in VA who not only reads all the tech articles but actually remembers them told me to stay away from headers. As he pointed out, they might give you a little more, but only the owner can decide whether it's worth it. Don't forget they use them in the FAST class with crazy numbers. I'm going to use manifolds for my 496 stroker when I eventually get to the silver RT. I was considering getting the extrusion honed, and he also convince me that was a waste of time, citing annother article comparing that. Good thing I couldn't find anyone to do it. If the price was right I might try it just for S&G's.
01-26-13, 01:51 AM
I agree that it's totally up to any cars owner regarding running headers or not, but after owning, building and maintaining quite a few Mopar, Chevy, Ford and AMC Muscle cars over the years, I've found that if you're building a serious drag car, then a well designed set of headers are worth their weight in gold, but for a mostly street driven car, headers aren't worth the money spent on them and certainly aren't worth all of the troubles they cause, because you will see very little gain from headers on a mild street engine in my personal experiences. As far as the Chrysler HP cast iron manifolds not sounding as cool as headers, I doubt that any of my neighbors would agree with that as I'm rattling their windows with my Coronet's exhaust system!
Look how nice the Chrysler HP manifolds fit into the engine compartment and you're not required to use a mini starter either.
As always, just my opinion and for those who just have to run headers, that's cool also.
Richard
Look how nice the Chrysler HP manifolds fit into the engine compartment and you're not required to use a mini starter either.
As always, just my opinion and for those who just have to run headers, that's cool also.
Richard
01-27-13, 10:51 PM
Was monkeying around in the garage today and got the mini starter in and threw in the headers on that side with a couple bolts to make sure everything has room. Looked good, will post pictures from computer tomorrow (it won't let me post pics from my phone). Plenty of clearance with the mini starter and once I take care of those f√¢k!ng busted studs I should be in business.
01-27-13, 11:27 PM
I am a huge supporter of cast iron exhaust manifolds and prefer them for a street car. Properly installed with attention paid to cast iron flashing in accessible areas and a flat mating surface at the head makes for an effiecient and trouble free street exhaust without the headaches of headers. I have had many sets of headers that ran on the street and after a few years they rust and get dented for whatever reason making it necessary for new headers to be installed. BIG PITA! For a street/strip car then yes, GOOD QUALITY headers are worth their weight in gold. Good luck with your project!
01-28-13, 10:49 AM
Please excuse the crappy quality... my phone's focus is TERRIBLE and I didn't want to grease up my nice camera. Anyway, Mini starter is substantially smaller in size than the stock one I took off. I opted for a heat shield wrap for it too because reading about headers causing heat soak issues with starters freaked me out. I went with this starter:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9300
And it went in no problem HOWEVER I bolted it up and then realized that the post for the cable from the batter was so close to the engine block that I couldn't take the nut off without loosening the starter. Not a big deal but makes me a little nervous to have the post that close to the grounded block. I feel a little better knowing that I have the heat wrap on it. The third shot is from underneath the car and you can't really tell but there is a good amount of clearance between the starter and the header. Threw the other side on with a couple bolts too just for the sake of a picture... no issues there.
590591592593
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9300
And it went in no problem HOWEVER I bolted it up and then realized that the post for the cable from the batter was so close to the engine block that I couldn't take the nut off without loosening the starter. Not a big deal but makes me a little nervous to have the post that close to the grounded block. I feel a little better knowing that I have the heat wrap on it. The third shot is from underneath the car and you can't really tell but there is a good amount of clearance between the starter and the header. Threw the other side on with a couple bolts too just for the sake of a picture... no issues there.
590591592593
01-28-13, 10:50 AM
Oh, I forgot to mention, the dipstick was hitting on the header a little so I took the bammer our and bent it back quite a ways.
01-28-13, 03:45 PM
Thanks for the updates Zaq.