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Full Version: 1967 Coronet Disc Break Conversion Recipe
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Hey gang.
I am in the process of some day doing a front break conversion on my 67 Coronet 500. I will be keeping the 14 inch wheels.

For those like me who have read everything ever posted on the internet? It is little confusing!

My hard parts will come from salvage yards. Consumables like rotors, bearings, pads. store bought.

I want to put together a "Recipe" for both salvage items and store items.

Here is where the fun and confusion comes. What parts do I buy?


This is what I have come up with so far.

1) Spindles salvage ---73-74 E BODY----73-76 A BODY.
2) 10.87 Inch dia rotor. 1973 - 1989 MOPAR: Oreillys #7032RGS $47.99. Raybestos #7032 $32.50

Calipers and brackets? Whats the best year, make and model to salvage these from? The calipers will be cores from salvage to reman units.

In the end. I want a "Recipe" of known parts and there sources.

I welcome all input from those who have gone down this road.

Thank you

Joe
Best way to go is '73-76 A-Body, '73-'74 Body discs - If you are lucky enough to find a donor car, get the proportioning valve, metal brake lines from master to prop valve and master cylinder along with the spindles, calipers & rotors. This set up will literally bolt on. If your car has a sway bar you will have to set it up so the caliper is in back (behind) the spindle centerline. You can swap the spindles side to side (calipers too). You can also use '80's vintage Volare/Aspen/5th Avenue/Diplomat brakes BUT only the 10.5 inch rotors (they also offered 11 inch but won't work with 14 inch wheels) If you have to orient your calpers to the rear there are some brake hose interference issues but the hoses are easy to bend (metal section) to fix it. One last thing - you will need an adapter fitting to adapt the rear brake line to fit the prop valve (easy to find) This swap has been done to both of my '66 Coronets and it works great.

Good idea to use the calipers as cores for rebuilts.
I'd also get a new/rebuilt master too and definately NEW brake hoses.
Feel free to PM me if you have more questions.
This might be some useful information for you and while most of this is geared towards using 15" wheels, he does also mention staying with the 14" wheels if you read the entire article, he does give you the parts needed to use 14" wheels at the bottom of the article.

Richard

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html
Calipers, Rotors, Bearings are the same from 73-76 A bodies, as well as the 79 and up Diplomat style cars.

Also, master cylinders from those cars bolt up as well. However, pay attention to the bore size on some of the MC's. Some of the police package Diplomats came with larger bore master cylinders. Only use them with power brakes, as it takes lot more pedal pressure to compress the fluid in the larger bore.

If you can't find a proportioning valve (they are being repopped now by places like Inline Tube), then use a Wilwood adjustable valve. Don't use the Mopar Performance one. You're paying top dollar to have MP put their name on a Wilwood valve.
This is GREAT information!
I forgot to mention that I will not be using a power booster. I plan on keeping it sweet and simple. My car is a street driver.
Forgot one other thing..

If using a newer model 2 bolt MC and the adapter plate, you'll need a longer brake pedal pushrod. (I believe there is an adapter available for the pushrod) The width of the adapter plate is enough that you won't get full compression of the piston.
Banging GearsOther than meeting like minded people, this thread is literally 35% of why I joined DCR. Thanks guys, now its time to start hoarding parts before the thaw....
I had a single master no booster all drum set up on my 66 coronet from the factory. Thinking I would eliminate the terrible breaking power that it gave me, I "upgraded" to a power boosted dual master front disc kit by Wilwood. Well, my cam isn't creating enough vacuum for me to have any sort of decent pedal. So now im back into nightmare land. Only now, im $1500 deep in it. I'd rather not install a noisy electric vacuum pump somewhere on the car. So i'm sort of at a loss.
SmartPatrol Wrote:I had a single master no booster all drum set up on my 66 coronet from the factory. Thinking I would eliminate the terrible breaking power that it gave me, I "upgraded" to a power boosted dual master front disc kit by Wilwood. Well, my cam isn't creating enough vacuum for me to have any sort of decent pedal. So now im back into nightmare land. Only now, im $1500 deep in it. I'd rather not install a noisy electric vacuum pump somewhere on the car. So i'm sort of at a loss.
[Image: 310-VACR-BL-K.jpg]You might want to try one of these vacuum canisters to help with that problem.
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