I got a set of Hedman Headers and it came with gaskets, bolts... so I was in the garage today taking out the old manifold studs. I was using the technique of putting two nuts on the stud, then using a straight wrench on the inside nut and backing the studs out; spraying the stuck ones with some liquid wrench. As I was backing them out I noticed that their threads looked like they were really dull, kind of how a bolt looks when it starts to strip. Is this normal when taking these out? I wanted to put one of the Hedman bolts in to make sure they were the right size and whatnot and put it in a few threads and when I backed it back out the two or three threads that I did wrench in looked dull as well. Is this normal? Are these things meant to be put in once and left alone and taking them back out means you'll just get new ones to put in their place? Here are a couple pictures of a stud I took out and the new bolt I put in a few threads:
497 498
On another note... of course one snapped off the second I even tried to turn it and, upon closer inspection, there is at least one more snapped off. What is the best way to take care of this? The one that I snapped off is the first (front most) on the drivers side and the one that came snapped off is the last (rear most) on the driver's side. I'm pretty sure I can get a drill in there straight on to drill them out but do I just drill and retap the same hole or so I drill it out bigger and put some sort of sleeve in? Do I have to take the motor out to do this? (I sure hope not, I don't have a cherry picker and do not really want to buy one)
Anyway, any help is appreciated. Thanks!
I've removed the studs before and had some with the flattened threads, as shown in the pics. I run a tap in the hole to help restore the threads before I install new studs or bolts in those holes.
I believe that the front and rear holes, where your studs snapped off, are the only ones that go directly into the water jackets in the heads. They get rust on them that causes them to seize in the head. I've been able to use a right angle drill and some patience to get them out. I center punch the broken stud and then drill a small hole. Then I drill a couple of more larger holes until I can get an easy out inside the stud. Sometimes the drilling heats the broken stud and helps loosen it. If I can't get it out, then I drill it bigger and use a tap to cut new threads. I haven't had to go to larger studs, but I'm sure that's an option. Be sure to use plenty of sealant on the threads of the 2 outside holes to prevent future water leaks. I've had good luck with Permatex Ultra Copper high temp. Good luck!
Looks like you need to run a thread chaser on all those threads before installing headers. Dont forget sealer if it's a big block.
I try and use studs on as many of the mounts as possible even with the headers.
Looks like you need to get out the drill for the others and a real good quality easy out, reverse drill bit and patience. The Snap-on one is good I know but the Matco one is junk. A cheap one will break off in there and make a bigger mess. Try putting a long bolt the the hole next to it, this will give you something to guide off so it drill's straight.
Great tip with the long bolt idea. I think I'm going to pick up a right angle drill this week and give it a whirl. Since they are in the first and last holes and go into the water jacket, do I need to worry about my depth at all or just go to town? I mean I'm obviously not going to run a 5 inch drill bit all the way through but is depth less critical on those ones? Thanks for the advice!
GOD FORBID . NO DRILL. U WILL DO THAT BY HAND with a tap 4 cutting threads CAREFULLY. these studs in big blocks go to waterjackets use hardened studs, WE DONT WANT 2 have any coolant seeping or leaking . definately U will use teflon tape about 3 rounds. double nuts on stud 2 instsall or remove NOT BRASS. TIP OF WEEK use fine thread BRASS NUTS on exhaust manifolds. The stud end that goes 2 head is course thread. The the other end should b fine thread. hardened stud, with SOFT BRASS NUTS
Zaq, everyone's got you covered here. Just keep in mind that you are drilling out steel in much softer cast iron. The bit will want to go to the softer cast which is NOT what you want. The center punch idea will help. If you can find them, get yourself a set of left hand drill bits. Sometimes those things pull the stud right out and you are done.
Good luck.
Lots of times when a stud/bolt snaps, it leaves a ridge. If you heat the cast iron around the hole, sometimes you can take a hammer and small chisel on the ridge and spin it out.
If using a EZ-Out, be careful. If you think it's tough trying to drill out what's left of the stud, try it with a piece of hardened steel in the hole.
A note to anyone planning on doing this... don't bother with the ez out... damn thing broke off barely touch it... now time to mess around with that. I read on another forum that the guy used a carbide tip dermal took and it made quick work of the ex out... I'm going to try that tomorrow evening if I get time.
Zaq Wrote:A note to anyone planning on doing this... don't bother with the ez out... damn thing broke off barely touch it... now time to mess around with that. I read on another forum that the guy used a carbide tip dermal took and it made quick work of the ex out... I'm going to try that tomorrow evening if I get time.
the old weld the nut 2 stud n let it cool turn out with hand wrench, way easier OFF. Can be done with heads still on car. U can do this. Any hardware store will have the studs n needed BRASS NUTS. Their SOFT!!! Never have that problem ever agin
Zaq Wrote:A note to anyone planning on doing this... don't bother with the ez out... damn thing broke off barely touch it... now time to mess around with that. I read on another forum that the guy used a carbide tip dermal took and it made quick work of the ex out... I'm going to try that tomorrow evening if I get time.
What brand EZ-out did you use so we know not to buy that one?
The good quality ones take allot more than barely toughing them to break.